07/08/2026
GETTING STARTED WITH BANANAS
Farming bananas can be profitable, if production is planned and carried out carefully.
Bananas are generally planted in December. A soil analysis for lime and phosphate should be carried out in June and land preparation begins in September. Add kraal manure or compost if available. Fertilise the soil using four bags/ ha of Monoammonium phosphate (MAP) fertiliser. Add two bags of lime if the soil analysis shows that the pH is low.
Rip the land to loosen the soil at a deep level. Spray or disc if there are many weeds in the land. There are several methods of planting bananas, but tissue culture plants are best. These are grown from the tissue of the banana plant in bags, and come ready for planting.
Prepare for planting by digging holes in November. Space the rows 3m apart and the plants 1,5m apart in the row. The hole should be 30cm x 30cm and knee height in depth. The correct size for the banana plant hole. It should be roughly 50cm deep.
Add kraal manure and put some loose soil back into the holes. Do not add more than 10g of MAP to each hole.Plant in December. Remove the plastic bag and place the plant with soil around its roots in the hole. Do not damage the plant or dislodge the soil when removing the bag – use a knife rather than a hoe.
Allow 10cm between the plant and the soil surface. Fill the hole and compact it. Irrigate the plants after planting.
1. Fertilisation
Apply the first top dressing a month after planting, using two bags/ha (50g/ plant) of Limestone Ammonium Nitrate (LAN) fertiliser.
Apply the second top dressing in March, using two bags/ha (50g/ plant) of LAN fertiliser and four bags/ha (100g/ plant) of Potassium chloride (KCl).
Apply the third topdressing in May, using the same amount/ ha of KCI and LAN fertiliser. Do not apply top dressing in June, July and August. Top dress again in September (nine months after planting), using four bags/ha KCI and two bags/ha LAN, and again in November (11 months after planting), using the same amount/ha KCI and LAN.
Using the same amount once more, apply the last top dressing in January. Compost made from old vegetable leaves, chicken and kraal manure can supplement the fertiliser programme.
2. Desuckering
Use a knife to cut off the stems of suckers that have grown about 30cm long.
When planting on a slope, always leave the suckers on the uphill side.
Cut off all suckers on the north-western side of the banana plant. This is the side where the bunch hangs.
Five months after planting, select only one vigorous sucker to carry the next bunch. Remove the remaining suckers.
Continue removing unwanted suckers as they appear. To protect the bunches, keep no more than 2 080 plants/ha. For this reason, make sure there is only one sucker after harvesting.
3. Irrigation
Irrigate newly-planted tissue culture banana plants every day for two weeks (15 minutes per irrigation) to protect the leaves from heat stress.
In the absence of rain, irrigate frequently and lightly.
If the land has heavy, loamy soil, apply 20mm of water every three days in summer and every eight days in winter.
Banana basics
1. Controlling weeds and pests, and harvesting your crop.
Banana fruits develop in a large hanging cluster, made up of tiers (called ‘hands’), with up to 20 fruit to a tier. The hanging cluster is known as a bunch, and can comprise three to 20 tiers.
Once your banana plants are growing, cover the bunches with bags for protection against insects and wind. At the same time, remove lower-hanging yellow leaves. This will result in better quality bananas. Remove the lower leaves from the plant as they get old because they can spread diseases and scratch the bunches.
Use a knife to cut off the leaves – do not pull them. Place the leaves on the ground as mulch to increase the nutrient content of the soil. Banana plants usually need support when heavy with fruit; provide this by propping the bunches with a rope and sticks.
2. Controlling weeds
Use only recommended chemicals applied strictly according to the instructions on the label. Do not spray the banana plants or spray when it’s windy.
When using chemical control, such as glyphosate or paraquat, protect all parts of the banana plant from spray drift.
Use a hoe or your hands to kill weeds in the area near the plant to avoid chemical spray contact with the plants.
3. Pest and disease control
Thrips: Use chlorpyrifos pesticide once a month to kill thrips if they are present.
Nematodes: If these are present, kill them with Nemacur using 45kg/ ha (20g/plant). Compost, kraal manure and chicken manure applied in ample quantities will also suppress nematodes. Tissue culture plants are free of nematodes, which is one of the reasons that this is the preferred method of cultivation.
Black sigatoka: Plants with leaves damaged by the disease may have up to 50% lower fruit yield. Spray with Dithane and mineral oil. The latter enhances the pe*******on of the fungicide in the leaves and reduces leaching from rain. Ask your extension officer or chemical rep for advice. Finally, dip the banana hands into Benlate solution (5g/10l water) to prevent post-harvest decay.
4. Harvesting
Harvest bananas when they are swollen and green, but before they become ripe (plump and yellow). Do not harvest when the bananas are thin and dark green.
Harvest early in the morning when the sun is not too hot. Do not leave cut bunches lying in the sun. Get people to help you to cut the banana pseudo-stem halfway across and halfway down. Let the plant drop slowly and then remove the bunch by cutting the bunch stalk. Do not let the bunches fall to the ground.
Chop up the leaves and top part of the pseudo-stem and lay it on the soil as a mulch. Carry the bunches to the trailer and lay them next to each other; never place them on top of each other. In the packhouse, which should be built in a cool location, hang bunches, remove hands, cut into clusters, pack into cartons and store, preferably on the southern side of the building.