Chicarlyn German Shepherd Dogs, Waterfall (2026)

02/09/2026

🥚 EGGS: A NUTRIENT-RICH POWERHOUSE FOR YOUR DOG

Eggs are one of those wonderfully simple whole foods that can add a lot of nutritional value to a dog’s diet.

They provide high-quality protein, healthy fats, vitamins, minerals and other important nutrients, and when fed as a whole egg, you’re giving your dog the benefits of the white, yolk and, if appropriately prepared, the shell and membrane too.

🐾 WHY EGGS?

Dogs are natural scavengers, and eggs have been part of the diets of wild canids for thousands of years. Eggs provide a convenient package of highly digestible nutrients that can support muscle, skin, coat, brain and overall health.

🍳 THE EGG WHITE

Egg white is an excellent source of high-quality protein and contains important nutrients including potassium and sodium.

Protein is particularly important for maintaining muscle mass, which becomes increasingly important as our dogs age.

🥚 THE EGG YOLK

This is where much of the nutritional goodness is concentrated!

The yolk contains healthy fats, protein and a wonderful range of vitamins and minerals, including:

🌟 Vitamins A, D, E and K
🌟 B vitamins, including folate
🌟 Choline
🌟 Selenium
🌟 Zinc
🌟 Phosphorus
🌟 Iron
🌟 Omega-3 fatty acids, including DHA

Choline is particularly interesting because it plays important roles in brain function, cell membranes, metabolism and liver health.

And those healthy fats and fat-soluble vitamins are also valuable for maintaining healthy skin and a beautiful coat.

🦴 WHAT ABOUT THE SHELL?

Eggshell is predominantly calcium carbonate, making it a natural source of calcium.

If you feed the shell, it should be thoroughly cleaned and finely ground or pulverised rather than offered in large sharp pieces.

For dogs eating a properly balanced raw diet that already contains an appropriate amount of edible bone, extra eggshell calcium may not be necessary. It is important to consider the whole diet rather than simply adding calcium because "more" is not necessarily better.

🐾 AND THE EGG MEMBRANE?

That thin membrane attached to the inside of the shell contains compounds including collagen and other components involved in connective tissue.

Eggshell membrane has been studied for its potential role in supporting joint health, although it shouldn't be viewed as a treatment for arthritis or other joint disease.

🍳 RAW OR COOKED?

This is another area that creates plenty of debate!

Dogs can eat eggs raw or cooked. Raw eggs retain their natural nutrients without heat-related changes, while cooking reduces the risk of bacterial contamination.

If feeding raw eggs, use fresh, good-quality eggs, handle them hygienically and store them appropriately.

And the old concern that raw egg whites automatically cause biotin deficiency? The yolk contains biotin, which helps balance the avidin in the white when the whole egg is fed.

🐕 WHAT ABOUT ALLERGIES?

Egg allergies can occur, but they aren't particularly common.

A dog can also react to one protein source without necessarily reacting to another, so a sensitivity to chicken doesn't automatically mean a dog will react to eggs.

As with any new food, introduce eggs gradually and pay attention to how your individual dog responds.

🥚 HOW OFTEN?

For most dogs, eggs are best thought of as a nutritious addition rather than the foundation of the diet.

I love using whole eggs as part of a varied fresh-food diet, rotating them alongside other appropriate sources of animal protein, organs, bone and plant foods.

The beauty of whole foods is that they don't have to be complicated.

Sometimes one of the best nutritional additions is sitting right there in your fridge! 🥚🐾

So shell we give eggs a try? 😉

Donna Williams
Emerald Park Border Collies

My mission is to make life better for at least one dog today!

01/09/2026

➡️ Why Puppies Go Wild at Night

There’s a point in the evening when your adorable puppy seems to suddenly forget every lesson they’ve ever learned.

The zoomies begin. Teeth appear. Toys are thrown around. Feet become fascinating. They race around the room, bark, grab at clothing and generally behave as though someone has pressed the “chaos” button.

And you’re left wondering …

“What happened to my lovely puppy?”

Probably nothing.

What you’re seeing is often the result of a puppy reaching the end of their ability to cope with the stimulation of the day.

🧠 A puppy’s day is exhausting in ways we sometimes overlook.

Every new person, sound, smell, surface, training session, car trip, game, visitor and experience requires their developing brain to process information.

They are also growing rapidly and need a huge amount of sleep.

As the day progresses, fatigue can make it harder for a young puppy to regulate arousal and control their impulses. Instead of quietly thinking, “I’m tired, I’ll go to bed,” they may become MORE active.

That can look like zooming, biting, barking, jumping, grabbing and generally going a little wild.

It doesn’t necessarily mean your puppy needs more exercise.

Sometimes they need less.

➡️ What can you do?

🌙 Start winding down before the chaos begins.

If you know your puppy usually becomes unsettled at a particular time, don't wait until they are already racing around the house. Begin reducing stimulation beforehand.

🧸 Choose calming activities.

A safe chew, stuffed food toy, licking activity or gentle sniffing game can provide an appropriate outlet without adding lots of excitement.

😴 Make sleep easier.

Create a predictable environment where your puppy can rest without constant interaction. Puppies don't always choose sleep when they need it, particularly when there is still something interesting happening around them.

🔇 Reduce the input.

Lower the noise, put away exciting toys, limit boisterous play and give your puppy some downtime.

And perhaps most importantly …

🚫 Don't assume the answer is to “tire them out”.

Adding more exercise or exciting play to an already over-aroused puppy can simply keep the nervous system switched on for longer.

Instead, think about the balance between activity and recovery throughout the entire day.

Has your puppy had enough sleep?

Have they had periods of quiet?

Have they experienced a lot of novelty?

Have there been visitors, outings, training, play and other stimulating experiences?

All of these things add to the puppy's overall arousal load.

💚 Learning to recognise this pattern is an important part of raising a puppy.

Your puppy isn't being naughty. They aren't deliberately ignoring you. And they aren't trying to make your evening difficult.

They're a young animal with a rapidly developing brain who is still learning how to regulate arousal, cope with stimulation and transition from activity to rest.

Sometimes the most helpful thing you can give an overexcited puppy isn't another activity.

It's permission to switch off.

And that is a skill we can help them learn.

Donna Williams,
Emerald Park Border Collies.
www.emeraldparkbc.com

01/09/2026

🐾 STOPPING PUPPY FARMING STARTS WITH THE BUYER 🐾

I have a hope.

You may call it a dream.

I believe that through education, we can help change the puppy-buying culture and make it increasingly difficult for puppy farmers and irresponsible breeders to survive.

Puppy buyers, the power really is in your hands.

When we talk about stopping puppy farming, the conversation often focuses on legislation, licensing and stronger regulation.

These things have an important role to play.

But it's obvious regulation alone cannot eliminate a market for puppies.

As long as people continue to purchase puppies without knowing how to recognise responsible breeding, there will be people willing to supply them.

🧠 EDUCATION CHANGES THE DEMAND

Commercial puppy farming depends on puppies being sold.

The more difficult it becomes for poor breeding practices to find buyers, the less commercially viable those practices become.

An educated puppy buyer is therefore incredibly powerful.

They don't simply ask:

“How much is the puppy?”

They ask:

“Why was this litter bred?”

“Can I see the mother?”

“What health testing has been performed on both parents?”

“Can I see the actual health certificates?”

“Where are the puppies being raised?”

“How are the puppies being socialised?”

“What happens if my puppy develops a problem?”

“What support will you provide after I take my puppy home?”

And perhaps most importantly:

“Am I comfortable with what I am supporting with my money?”

🔍 LOOK BEYOND THE WEBSITE

A beautiful website doesn't prove responsible breeding.

Neither does a long list of testimonials.

Neither does a puppy being advertised as “vet checked”.

Responsible breeding should be supported by evidence.

Look for appropriate health testing for the breed.

Look for transparency about the parents.

Look for puppies raised in an appropriate environment.

Look for thoughtful socialisation and enrichment.

Look for a breeder who wants to know about YOU and the home you can provide.

Look for someone who remains accountable for the puppies they produce.

🚩 AND BE PREPARED TO WALK AWAY

If something doesn't feel right, don't allow excitement, availability or a cute photograph to override your concerns.

Don't let “there are other families waiting” pressure you into a decision.

Don't assume that because a breeder is registered, everything has automatically been done correctly.

Don't be afraid to ask difficult questions.

And don't be afraid to walk away.

❤️ YOUR MONEY IS YOUR VOTE

Every puppy purchase supports a breeding decision.

When you choose a responsible breeder, you are supporting health testing, appropriate breeding decisions, good maternal care, early development, socialisation and lifelong responsibility.

When consumers knowingly or unknowingly support poor breeding practices, they help keep those practices financially viable.

That is why puppy buyer education matters so much.

📚 WE NEED TO EDUCATE, NOT JUST REACT

We need prospective puppy buyers to understand what responsible breeding looks like BEFORE they fall in love with a puppy.

We need people to recognise the difference between marketing and evidence.

We need families to understand that the cheapest puppy isn't necessarily the least expensive puppy in the long run.

And we need people to understand that buying a puppy is not simply a transaction.

It is supporting someone's breeding practices.

🐾 MY HOPE

I don't believe we will change puppy farming with one law, one campaign or one Facebook post.

But I do believe education can change the decisions people make.

One educated buyer.

One family willing to ask better questions.

One person prepared to walk away.

One breeder held to a higher standard.

Then another.

And another.

Eventually, the demand changes.

And when the demand changes, the market has to change with it.

Puppy buyers...

THE POWER IS YOURS.

Please share this post.

Educate someone who is thinking about buying a puppy.

Ask better questions.

Expect evidence.

And never be afraid to walk away.

Together, we can help create a future where breeding dogs is about producing healthy, behaviourally sound puppies and accepting responsibility for the lives we bring into the world. 🐾❤️

Donna Williams,
Emerald Park Border Collies.
www.emeraldparkbc.com

“My mission is to improve the life of at least one dog today!”

29/08/2026

🥩🐾 LET’S TALK ORGAN MEAT IN FRESH FEEDING 🐶🍽️

If you feed your dog a fresh or raw diet, you have probably heard that organ meat is essential.

There is truth in that, but there is also a lot of confusion about what actually counts as an organ nutritionally, how much should be fed, and whether every organ from a prey animal needs to end up in the bowl.

Let’s unpack it.

🧠 WHAT DO WE MEAN BY “ORGAN MEAT”?

In fresh feeding, the term “organ meat” is often used very broadly. Anatomically, many tissues are organs. Nutritionally, however, they are not interchangeable.

When we talk about the nutrient-dense secreting organs used in fresh feeding, we are generally referring to tissues such as:

🥩 Liver
🥩 Kidney
🥩 Spleen
🥩 Pancreas
🥩 Thymus
🥩 Brain

These tissues have specialised physiological functions and contain different concentrations of vitamins, minerals and other nutrients.

And that difference matters.

❤️ WHAT ABOUT HEART?

Heart is an organ anatomically because it is a specialised body structure.

Nutritionally, however, it is generally treated as muscle meat.

Heart is predominantly cardiac muscle and is an excellent food for dogs. It provides high-quality protein and nutrients including taurine, iron, zinc, selenium and B vitamins.

So if you are following a traditional fresh/raw feeding framework, heart belongs in your muscle-meat component rather than your secreting-organ allowance.

The same principle applies to muscular organs such as gizzard.

🧬 WHY IS LIVER SO IMPORTANT?

Liver is arguably the most important secreting organ in a fresh diet because of its exceptional nutrient density.

It provides highly bioavailable sources of:

🥩 Preformed vitamin A
🥩 Vitamin B12
🥩 Riboflavin and other B vitamins
🥩 Copper
🥩 Iron
🥩 Folate

Vitamin A is required for normal vision, immune function, reproduction, cell differentiation and many other physiological processes.

But this is also why liver needs to be respected.

More is not better.

Excessive liver feeding can provide excessive amounts of vitamin A and other nutrients. Organ meat should therefore be included deliberately rather than simply added in unlimited quantities because it is considered “healthy”.

🫘 WHAT DO THE OTHER ORGANS CONTRIBUTE?

Kidney, spleen, pancreas, thymus and other secreting tissues have their own nutritional profiles.

Kidney is a useful source of B vitamins and selenium.

Spleen is particularly rich in iron.

Pancreas contributes protein, fat and micronutrients and provides another type of secreting tissue.

Thymus is another nutrient-dense tissue that can be used as part of dietary variety.

This is one reason I prefer a variety of secreting organs rather than relying exclusively on liver.

However, there is an important point here:

There is no scientifically established requirement stating that a dog must consume a specific percentage of kidney, spleen, pancreas or thymus. If you don't have a wide variety of secreting organs available that's alright.

The National Research Council establishes nutrient requirements for dogs. It does not prescribe a recipe containing particular percentages of individual organs.

📊 SO HOW MUCH ORGAN MEAT SHOULD WE FEED?

A commonly used fresh/raw feeding framework is approximately:

🥩 5% liver
🥩 5% other secreting organs (or another 5% liver)
🥩 80% muscle meat and other appropriate animal tissues
🦴 10% edible bone

This is a useful framework for understanding the different components of a fresh diet.

🌿 WHAT ABOUT OVARIES AND TE**ES?

This is where I think we need to be particularly careful about assuming that “natural” automatically means “necessary”.

Ovaries and te**es are organs anatomically and can certainly be consumed by dogs.

They contain protein, fat, micronutrients and biologically active compounds, including reproductive hormones.

But there is currently no established canine nutritional requirement for feeding ovaries or te**es, and there is no evidence-based percentage that needs to be included in a balanced canine diet.

Some whole-prey feeding approaches recommend them because they are present in an intact animal.

But the fact that a wild canid may consume reproductive organs when eating an entire carcass does not demonstrate that domestic dogs require those tissues nutritionally.

Personally, I don't consider ovaries or te**es essential components of a fresh diet.

I would rather use the secreting-organ allowance for tissues with a clear nutritional rationale, such as liver, kidney and spleen, while using other organs for variety where appropriate.

This is an important distinction:

🐾 Anatomically an organ does not automatically mean nutritionally essential.

🐾 A food can be nutritious without being required.

🐾 Variety can be beneficial without every anatomical part being necessary.

🍽️ HOW OFTEN SHOULD ORGANS BE FED?

You do not need to feed a large quantity of organ meat at every meal.

What matters is the overall amount and nutrient contribution across the diet.

If you are working with the traditional 5% liver + 5% other secreting organs (or 10% liver) framework, those amounts can be distributed throughout the week rather than trying to make every individual meal perfectly identical.

For example, small amounts can be incorporated into several meals.

This can also be easier for dogs to tolerate, particularly when introducing organ meat for the first time.

The important consideration is the total diet over time.

⚠️ WHY BALANCE MATTERS

One of the biggest misconceptions about fresh feeding is that if a diet contains meat, bone and organs, it must automatically be nutritionally complete.

Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way.

Dogs have specific requirements for amino acids, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals.

Some nutrients can be deficient.

Others can become excessive.

Vitamin A from liver is one example, but calcium, copper, iodine, selenium and other nutrients also need to be considered.

This is particularly important for puppies, pregnant and lactating dogs and dogs with specific nutritional or medical requirements.

A diet can look beautifully “natural” in the bowl and still be nutritionally unbalanced.

🧪 SCIENCE OVER FORMULA

This is why I believe good fresh feeding requires more than memorising an 80/10/5/5 ratio.

Understand what each ingredient contributes.

Understand what your dog requires.

Use variety thoughtfully.

And, most importantly, consider the nutrient profile of the complete diet rather than assuming that a particular collection of ingredients automatically equals nutritional completeness.

❤️ MY TAKE-HOME MESSAGE

✔️ Liver is an exceptionally nutrient-dense food and an important source of preformed vitamin A, B12, copper, iron and other nutrients.

✔️ Kidney, spleen, pancreas and other secreting organs provide different nutrient profiles and can contribute valuable dietary variety.

✔️ Heart is anatomically an organ but is nutritionally treated as muscle meat.

✔️ A commonly used fresh/raw framework is approximately 5% liver and 5% other secreting organs.

✔️ There is no scientifically established percentage for each individual secreting organ.

✔️ Ovaries and te**es are not recognised as nutritionally essential components of the canine diet.

✔️ Organ meat does not need to be fed in large quantities at every meal. The overall dietary intake across time is what matters.

✔️ More organ meat is not necessarily healthier.

✔️ A “natural” ingredient list does not automatically make a diet nutritionally complete.

Fresh feeding gives us an amazing opportunity to provide dogs with a wide variety of whole foods.

But the goal isn't simply to recreate every part of an animal in the food bowl.

The goal is to provide the nutrients the dog actually needs, in appropriate amounts, from appropriate foods.

That is where fresh feeding becomes science-based nutrition rather than simply following a recipe. 🧪🐾

Donna Williams,
Emerald Park Border Collies.
www.emeraldparkbc.com

“My mission is to make life better for at least one dog today!”

27/08/2026

The puppy problem, is a critical lapse in puppy training that happens during the most important learning phase in a dog's life. It occurs when a new puppy family transitions the puppy from a breeder's home into their own. Initially, they just don't know what to do. They don’t understand why some things are important and which things are important. So, they decide to wait and see if things are really necessary, and then subsequently only act after their puppy begins causing problems This means the puppy has already picked up some bad behaviours. Now it is entering the challenges of doggy adolescence and families start to panic and think: “Oh, I do need some help!”. There is a gap between the breeder’s home and when the family finally decides to get some help with their puppy. That gap needs to be closed. And that's what solving the puppy problem does.

We are very devoted to better prepare families for solving the puppy problem. Understanding what to expect so that a lot of this will just be simple. The great news is this can be fixed, but it requires more education, a smoother transition from breeder homes into puppies' forever homes and the immediate implementation and ongoing continuation of proper pet parenting. What we need to do is get rid of that lapse in time where there's no training.

Now there's a window from about 8 to 10 weeks, which is the ideal window for a puppy to go home and start bonding with their new family. Considering that they're mentally mature enough to adjust to changes, they have a rapid ability to learn. Many experts believe that this is a very best age for strategically forming strong bonds with people. This is why most puppies go home between the ages of 8 to 10 weeks. Now this is where that puppy problem starts to appear.

If you're not aware, as a family, of the important stages of development that your puppy is going through you may miss them. Knowing what to expect in advance sets your puppy on a path for the rest of their life, and you want to make sure they're on the best path possible.

Your puppy is going to enter the secondary socialisation phase between 8 to 14 weeks and it's extremely important. Their brain is developing so quickly at this point in their life, and we need them to experience all sorts of things we want them to see, hear etc. It's important not to leave puppies at home until they're fully immunised. You may have to be inventive, but it possible to give positive experiences during this time frame. Be careful when you take your puppy out, but please take them out. You can take them in the car, carry them and choose wise places to visit and people to see, so that their experiences are positive. We want them to have confidence, and we want them to see new things; realise that they can go check them out, then bounce back in a really healthy way. Recognising that they are safe and can check things out is vital. This is an attitude they will carry with them for the rest of their lives! So, if your puppy isn't well socialised in those 8 to 14 weeks, and you just leave them in your house, you are not continuing the socialisation that the breeder has already started for you. Then you have a puppy problem, and it's going to evolve into a bigger and bigger problem with time.
Considering your puppy's curiosity and ability to quickly learn, this is the time to teach them proper manners and other behavioural responses that will lead to the creation of good habits in a well behaved dog. A lot of people will say "I would like a calm puppy". But, calm must be taught. This is the time to do it. Around the same period of time your puppy will also experience their first fear phase. This usually happens between 8 to 14 weeks, and during this time, your puppy might be hesitant towards things that previously didn't bother them. They might view things as potentially dangerous and scary. Not only will they look for someone to help them feel comfortable, but it's hopeful they will become brave enough to investigate and learn that there's not a need to be afraid.

Somewhere between 14 and 30 weeks the teething phase will begin. 28 temporary teeth will be replaced by 42 adult teeth. They will chew everything and anything unless you are ready to provide positive alternatives.

Later your puppy begins the developmental time known as the adolescent stags. This is everyone's favorite time, right!?! No? Okay, so this one's a little stressful. For most families, it can be exhausting and overwhelming. This is often the time when people start to really struggle with their puppy. We recommend trying to prepare for your puppy much sooner. If you can close that gap, and have your puppy seamlessly transition from the breeder into your home, you will be doing exactly what that breeder already started for you. Your puppy is toilet trained, sitting to say "please" & is crate/pen trained. Nothing in life is free. They don't just kind of learn these lessons as they go. They have to be effectively taught. When that puppy hits adolescence, they still go through that hard time of life, but you will know how to handle it. Your puppy will go through it much more smoothly if you know what you're doing.

We do our best to educate our new puppy families but recognise that our area of expertise is breeding and raising puppies up to around 8 weeks of age. We are not professional dog trainers and don't pretend to be. What we do is recommend an excellent online program that provides a remarkable quantity and quality of resources to fully prepare families for their new puppy. It is a lifetime membership, which includes advanced dog training too. Being prepared takes the stress out of puppy raising. Knowing what to expect and what to do about it gives you the best possible chance of success.

The program we recommend is BAXTER & Bella Online Puppy Training. A 25% discount can be obtained at checkout by using the code: EMERALDPARK.

Be PUPPY READY!

26/08/2026

🐾 IS A GERMAN SHEPHERD REALLY THE RIGHT BREED FOR YOU?

I adore German Shepherds. They have been a huge part of my life for many years, and for me there is very little that compares to living and working with a good GSD.

But that doesn’t mean I think everybody should own one.

In fact, I think one of the most important conversations we can have about this wonderful breed is whether they genuinely fit the life you have, rather than the life you imagine having with one.

Because there are an awful lot of reasons to choose a German Shepherd.

THE GOOD BITS ❤️

🐾 They are incredibly intelligent.
They are capable of learning an enormous amount and, with the right training, can turn their paw to almost anything.

🐾 They are wonderfully versatile.
Obedience, tracking, scent work, agility, protection sports, working roles, hiking, holidays or simply being an active family dog. A well-bred GSD can be incredibly adaptable.

🐾 They can form fantastic relationships with their people.
They are often very tuned into their owners and interested in what is happening around them. That connection is one of the things many of us become completely addicted to.

🐾 They are generally keen to learn and work.
Give them appropriate outlets for their brains and bodies and they can be enormously rewarding to train.

🐾 They have presence.
There is something rather special about a German Shepherd. They are beautiful, powerful dogs and, for many of us, once you’ve lived with one it is very difficult to imagine life without one.

🐾 They can be fabulous family dogs.
The right GSD, with the right genetics, upbringing and home, can be a wonderful companion who is just as happy being part of everyday family life as doing something more structured.

But…

There is another side to all of those qualities.

THE NOT-SO-GOOD BITS 😬

🐾 They are incredibly intelligent.
Yes, that’s on both lists! Intelligence isn’t always convenient. A clever dog with insufficient guidance or appropriate outlets can become very inventive about finding its own entertainment.

🐾 They can be sensitive.
German Shepherds often notice EVERYTHING. People, dogs, noises, movement, changes in environment and changes in you. That sensitivity can be a huge asset, but it can also make poor experiences particularly significant.

🐾 Reactivity can be an issue.
This isn’t a breed where I would ever assume that simply exposing a puppy to absolutely everything will create a bombproof adult. Genetics matter. Temperament matters. Experiences matter. How those experiences are handled matters enormously.

🐾 Adolescence can be interesting!
That gorgeous, relatively straightforward puppy can suddenly become a large, powerful teenager with opinions. Fear periods, hormones, increased awareness of the environment and developing guarding tendencies can all appear.

🐾 They need your time.
Not necessarily hours of mindless exercise every day, but they do need involvement. Training, appropriate exercise, mental stimulation and being included in life all matter.

🐾 They are big and powerful.
A 30 to 40kg dog barking and lunging at the end of a lead is very different from a 5kg dog doing it. Training isn’t an optional extra.

🐾 They can be vocal.
Some have an opinion on absolutely everything, and they are quite prepared to share it with you, your neighbours and occasionally the entire postcode. 😂

🐾 THE HAIR. THE HAIR. THE HAIR.
If you like a pristine house and don’t want dog hair on your clothes, furniture, carpets, car and occasionally somewhere completely inexplicable, this may not be your breed.

🐾 They can be expensive.
Food, insurance, training, equipment and veterinary treatment for a large breed soon add up.

🐾 Health absolutely matters.
German Shepherds can be affected by a number of inherited and structural health problems, which makes researching breeders, health testing and family history incredibly important.

🐾 They don’t necessarily love everybody.
And personally, I don’t think they need to. A German Shepherd doesn’t have to want every stranger or every strange dog in its face. Neutrality is hugely underrated.

🐾 A badly bred GSD can be extremely difficult to live with.
Poor nerves, inappropriate aggression, extreme reactivity or an inability to settle are not small problems in a dog of this size and power. Choosing where your puppy comes from really does matter.

And perhaps the biggest consideration…

You aren’t just choosing the cute fluffy puppy you bring home at eight weeks.

You are choosing the adolescent.
The adult.
The muddy dog.
The hairy dog.
The dog who might bark.
The dog who may need considerably more training than you expected.
The dog who may not grow into exactly the character you pictured.

And hopefully, you are choosing the old grey-faced German Shepherd who will still be beside you more than a decade later. ❤️

For the right person, I think they are one of the most extraordinary breeds in the world.

But loving the idea of a German Shepherd and enjoying the reality of living with one can be two very different things.

So, GSD owners, what would YOU add to the list?

What’s the one thing you wish somebody had told you before you brought your first German Shepherd home? 👇

Chicarlyn German Shepherd Dogs

02/09/2026

01/09/2026

01/09/2026

29/08/2026

27/08/2026

26/08/2026

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