Take the Lead K9 Training

Take the Lead K9 Training A dog training and rehabilitation service for helping families understand how to bridge the gap in communication and create calm dogs in our crazy world!
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"Creating Calm Dogs in a Crazy World"

Hi guys - thanks for visiting my page! I hope you find it helpful with dog training tips as well as educational regarding balanced training! Take the Lead K9 Training is a Board & Train dog training service in Central Florida, focusing on obedience, behavior modification, and socialization. Dogs have a language all of their own and my goal is to help owners b

ridge the gap in communication. With a Bachelor's Degree in Psychology, I understand that the first step to strengthening our relationship with our dogs is understanding what they are telling us, but most importantly what we REALLY have been saying to them. At Take the Lead we focus on creating balanced relationships with humans and dogs through leadership, obedience, behavior modification, and socialization. Behavior problems develop from a lack of structure and leadership in the relationship between humans and their dogs. Take the Lead K9 Training provides a detailed look at what makes a functional and relaxed home environment for the entire family. The first step to changing your dog's behavior is understanding that your behavior will have to change, too! Everything we do speaks something to our dog, and it is important for us to understand that we influence both the good and bad behaviors that we see. The key to creating a successful dog-human relationship is that the training you learn continue to be applied, even after our sessions are over-- think of dog training as not a set of tricks, but a continuous lifestyle, and you will have a great relationship with your dog. You CAN have the dog you've always wanted-- they are always ready for us to take the lead! If you're in Florida and need help with your dog, or would like to talk from anywhere in the country, please visit my website www.taketheleadk9training.com to see the different service and rates that we offer! Please contact me with any questions! I look forward to hearing from you!

-Victoria Smith, Owner & Head Trainer

THIS!! Vaccination and safe socialization are both essential for puppy development. Your puppy’s impression window from ...
07/17/2026

THIS!! Vaccination and safe socialization are both essential for puppy development. Your puppy’s impression window from 8-12/14 weeks needs to be full of positive and neutral experiences that they will see during their lifetime with you. Smart, safe socialization and enrichment during this window of development is your chance to give them an opportunity to be a confident and well adjusted dog - if you have your puppy at this age, they are little sponges ready to learn, experience, and prepare for the life ahead of them 🐾

With a few CCP puppies almost ready to start finding homes, I want to talk about something important: vaccinations, socialization, and finding the responsible balance between the two.

Vaccinations are a critical part of keeping your puppy safe, healthy, and protected throughout life. They are preventative care, they are recommended by veterinary professionals, and following an appropriate vaccination schedule is required by my contract. But vaccination should not mean isolation.

I have seen breeders and owners insist that a puppy must never touch the ground anywhere outside its own home until every puppy vaccine has been completed. Because the core puppy series generally continues until at least 16 weeks of age, following that advice literally would mean keeping a puppy almost entirely inside during one of the most important developmental periods of its life. That is not what I recommend.

The early weeks of puppyhood are when puppies learn that the world is safe. They need positive experiences with different people, surfaces, sounds, environments, objects, and appropriately selected animals. This is how we help them become confident, adaptable companions.

You cannot raise a confident puppy by keeping it in a bubble.

That does not mean placing an incompletely vaccinated puppy on every public floor and hoping for the best. It means using your noggin and choosing experiences carefully. Places I would avoid include: Dog parks, Pet-store floors, pet-relief areas, public areas heavily traveled by unknown dogs, shared apartment dog areas. Any location where dogs of unknown health and vaccination status regularly eliminate.

And please think carefully about the veterinary hospital. Where do sick dogs go? They go to the veterinarian. When you take your little puppy for an appointment, carry the puppy or keep it securely contained rather than allowing it to wander across the waiting-room floor or outdoor relief area.

Safer socialization can include visiting the clean homes of trusted friends, meeting healthy and fully vaccinated dogs you know, riding in the car, being carried through appropriate public places, sitting in a clean stroller or cart with a protective liner, experiencing different household surfaces and noises, meeting people of different ages and appearances, and attending a carefully managed puppy class that follows appropriate vaccination and sanitation requirements.

Puppy vaccines are administered as a series because antibodies received from the mother can interfere with a young puppy’s response to vaccination. The purpose of repeating the vaccine every few weeks is not simply to “boost” each previous shot. It is to improve the likelihood that the puppy receives an effective dose after those maternal antibodies have declined. Current veterinary guidelines generally recommend beginning core vaccines around six to eight weeks and repeating them every two to four weeks, with the final puppy dose given at 16 weeks of age or older.

Your veterinarian should determine the schedule for your individual puppy, including any lifestyle-based vaccines that may be appropriate.

Even after the first core vaccination, a puppy should not be treated as fully protected. But that does not mean the puppy has to disappear from the world until the series is finished.

There is no completely risk-free childhood, canine or otherwise. A puppy may encounter a flea. It may eventually pick up an intestinal parasite. Giardia exists throughout the environment. We take sensible precautions, practice good hygiene, provide regular veterinary care, and treat problems appropriately when they occur.

That is very different from knowingly exposing a puppy to high-risk environments where parvovirus, distemper, or other serious communicable diseases may be present.

My goal is not to choose between physical health and behavioral health. Both matter.

I want your puppy protected from preventable and potentially deadly disease. I also want your puppy to grow into a happy, curious, resilient, and confident adult.

Vaccinate responsibly. Socialize thoughtfully. Avoid unnecessary risks. But please, let your puppy experience life.

📷 Powell Creative

Something we get asked a lot is what "good play" looks like - folks often aren't sure if their dogs are playing, they ar...
07/15/2026

Something we get asked a lot is what "good play" looks like - folks often aren't sure if their dogs are playing, they are being too aggressive, or if all the noises they hear are friendly or not!

While every dog has their own preferred playstyle, before allowing dogs to play I always make judgement calls on "if things are OK or not" based off of a couple initial factors:

Size differences: If we have pretty dramatic size differences, the play style has to be appropriate for the smaller dog. Even if things start out in good spirits, it can get very unfair quickly if the larger dog is using their weight/body a lot OR their chase drive kicks in and they start to get too fascinated by a quick little dog. Be very very careful about playtime with bigs and littles.

Age differences: Young/adolescent dogs don't always jive well with older/mature dogs. The youngsters can often times wear out their welcome quickly with the older crowd, so be aware if the older dog is loosing their patience and the youngin' is being a pest 🙂 An older dog correcting a younger dog for inappropriate play is OK, but make sure you know the older dog gives fair corrections (and doesn't just become defensive and actually harm the pup) AND that if they've corrected the pup and it hasn't taken the hint that YOU step in and advocate for the scenario. Older dogs don't enjoy constantly having to be the police and being trampled by rude pups who arn't getting the message.

Relationship: Are these dogs interacting for the first few times together, or are they buddies/housemates who see each other regularly? Dogs who play rough and tumble with dogs they've known for a while don't always feel comfortable being as rowdy with dog's they've never met. Just like we learn to set boundaries and open ourselves up to be more vulnerable in our human relationships through trust and familiarity, dogs do too. Play styles often develop and change as the relationship changes! Unfortunately, often rough and rowdy dogs rush the process for more sensitive dogs and can send them into defense - causing a scuffle or fight with dogs who eventually become very dog selective due to bad experiences.

Temperament: Are the dogs who will be mingling together compatible temperaments? Not every dog is going to like every dog, and a yard full of assertive, posturing, intense dogs is bound for trouble. Learn what you can about dog body language and try to decide where your dog falls in their personality and temperament. More submissive dogs tend to get along with everybody, while assertive/strong personalities may need to be watched and controlled carefully or put only with very submissive or low energy partners. Also, FYI, hu***ng and over the back chin posturing is super rude, assertive, and can cause conflict fast!

Play should always be fair with give and take. If one dog is constantly being pumbled and chased, and when trying to make space to regroup is just chased some more, the play is going south. This happens alot in doggie daycare or at dog parks - overly friendly (or overly assertive) dogs who can't read body language will pumble more sensitive dogs too much and we find over time reactivity, defensive displays, and poor social skills follow for the dog who was pushed around over and over.

Some dogs are vocal players! That said, usually lots of vocalizations paired with fast and sharp body action means the arousal levels are kicking up. If your dogs know each other's limits and can "hulk out" like gladiators without it escalating to a fight, then it's no issue - but if you're not sure if it's OK to get that rowdy, you feel uncomfortable, or your dog has displayed over and over that a high level of arousal often leads to some sort of snarky/overstimulated spat, it's time to start interrupting the play before it gets to that point so your dog can learn to regulate.

A rule of thumb is that most dogs do well with bouncy play bows, floppy chewy cheeks, and low key romps back and forth that don't involve a lot of physical contact.

More rough and tumble wrestling is something not every dog enjoys, and needs to be watched closely with new relationships being developed between dogs.

When movement moves from loose and floppy to sharp, hard, and fast (chasing included) - arousal is going up, which means trouble could be brewing! It might be time to interrupt and learn the signs of arousal raising during play!

I've said it before, but it's a great analogy: you have to be a lifeguard in a sea of dogs :)

Cinder snoozing on place
06/06/2026

Cinder snoozing on place

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Winter Springs Boulevard
Winter Springs, FL
32708

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