Grettas Dog Training

10/07/2026

09/04/2026

Another case is closed. Successfully ⭐️

The owner was moving to another state and wanted to make sure that her companion would do well in the airport too.

The airport is an overwhelming place for a lot of dogs, even those who would listen to you in a park around distractions.

We need from Chuck to:
Don't pull
Stay engaged
Be patient / settle down on your own but be attentive
Don't try to say hi to random people/dogs

Successfully accomplished the task within 3 weeks. No board and train. Chuck had a good foundation that he learned in the past with a different trainer.

08/07/2026

Your dog isn’t being stubborn, he just don’t automatically understand that the same rules apply everywhere.

Practice familiar skills in new environments, lower your expectations at first, and give them time to adjust.

The good news? Every new environment usually gets a little easier

07/27/2026

If you’ve completed private training or any of our group courses, you’re invited to join our monthly ALUMNI classes!

Each month we explore a different topic, giving you and your dog a fun way to keep learning, practicing, and building new skills together.

📅 ALUMNI classes are typically held on the last weekend of each month.

To see this month’s date, time, available spots, and topic, check the link in bio, it’s updated every month.

Hope to see you and your pup in class soon!

07/21/2026

One small position change can make a big difference.

A few things to keep in mind:

• This tip works best for dogs with mild to moderate reactivity. If your dog reacts every time, you’ll likely need additional foundation work first.

• Keep the leash short enough to keep your dog close, but don’t let the leash be the only thing preventing your dog from reaching the trigger. If your dog is constantly pulling against the leash trying to get to the other dog, this exercise isn’t the right starting point.

• If switching sides isn’t enough, try adding more distance. Sometimes just a few extra feet makes all the difference.

• Reward every successful pass generously. Not just 1 treat. But 5 will make a difference.

• Successful repetitions build the habit of checking in with you instead of reacting. If your dog starts looking at you before reacting, reward immediately.

• If your dog reacts anyway, keep walking. Avoid stopping to negotiate while the other dog is still nearby.

Every successful repetition helps build a new habit.

📝 If your dog reacts in almost every situation, don’t get discouraged. Some dogs simply need more than one technique. Reach out, and let’s work through it together.

07/10/2026

In this video, the puppy is interested in the older dog’s Kong. The older dog has already finished most of it, but clearly doesn’t feel like sharing. She growls and gives a warning. The puppy notices it, ignores it, and continues investigating. No conflict follows.

So, should dogs share?

Honestly, not necessarily.

When one dog communicates to another that something is valuable to them, that is generally considered normal dog-to-dog communication. Resource guarding between dogs is often much more normal than people think. The bigger concern is when that behavior is directed toward humans.

Would I intervene here?

Unlikely.

The older dog is communicating, but choosing not to escalate. The puppy is being pushy, but the situation remains calm.

However, if warnings regularly turn into fights, or if one dog repeatedly ignores communication from the other, management becomes important. Dogs that repeatedly fight over food, toys, or chews can develop a pattern where conflict becomes a normal part of living together.

In those situations, the easiest solution is usually management:

• Feed dogs separately.
• Give chews in separate areas.
• Use gates, crates, or different rooms when needed.
• Prevent opportunities for conflict before they start.

Some other scenarios:
if the puppy hears the warning and walks away, I would not interfere. That’s healthy communication.

If the puppy starts excessively barking, or repeatedly pushing the issue, I would redirect the puppy, call off or simply remove. Not because the older dog is right or wrong, but because I don’t want the puppy practicing pushy behavior and excessive bark when frustrated.

🐾 If you’re dealing with something similar at home, don’t hesitate to reach out. Many behavior challenges have simple solutions when addressed early and with the right approach.

07/10/2026

How do you like this new format? Is it interesting to get to know what a trainer does in the moment?👇

07/07/2026

We were joking with the crew to start the class and name it “for the Graaaam” 😆

Synchronized work isn’t easy. Handlers need to control own actions, pay attention to their dog, and to near by handlers to make it look nice and synchronized.

During pack walks with the they learned to multitask: look around, walk around other handlers with dogs, see and reward their dogs. Dogs learned not to pay attention to other dogs.

During our ⭐️ time, we turn that into more organized performance. For fun 🤩

The Christmas Parade is coming… and even a better performance come with it.
Thanks to CREW for having fun with me

07/01/2026

What’s happening in this video?

The goal here is to prevent practicing an undesirable behavior, RELEASING himself, and reinforce a desirable behavior: impulse control, meaning staying committed to the sit and waiting for my VOCAL release cue.

This is a very young dog in a highly distracting environment. Most of his behaviors are still being formed. The sit itself is pretty good, but many other skills are still a work in progress. Because of that, I keep my expectations realistic.

When I started taking off the leash, he didn’t wait for me to fully remove it and release him. He decided to release himself early. Since I don’t want him practicing that behavior, I stopped him, brought him back to the sit, and started the process again.

This time, I’m purposely moving and rubbing the leash around his neck, pretending that I’m taking it off. The reason is simple: I want to make sure he is truly committed to the sit and waiting for my voice cue, not waiting for the feeling of the leash coming off. If he stood up and took off while I was pretending, it would tell me he was paying attention to the leash rather than my cue, and I would simply bring him back and repeat the exercise again.

Once I see that he is committed to the sit through the entire process, I remove the leash completely. At the same time, I keep my hand close to his collar because I still anticipate that he may decide to take off. If he had done that, I would have grabbed the collar, put the leash back on, and repeated the entire process again.

Because this is a young dog in a highly distracting environment, I’m not asking for a lot. My expectation is simply that he stays committed to the sit for a second or two after the leash comes off. The reward here is freedom, and freedom works as a reward only because it’s exactly what he wants in that moment.

Over time, this teaches the dog to pay less attention to what the leash is doing and become more committed to listening for the handler’s release cue.

The last point is in the comment section 👇