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AGGRESSION MANAGEMENTIf you live with a dog that displays aggressive behavior (lunging, growling, or even biting), using...
10/05/2026

AGGRESSION MANAGEMENT

If you live with a dog that displays aggressive behavior (lunging, growling, or even biting), using management to keep everyone safe is the first priority, along with a good behavior modification plan. This post deals with management only - you will STILL NEED a training program to correct these behaviors. There are several offered in my other posts.

What Is Management?
Change your dog’s environment to make it impossible or unlikely that he’ll do the specific behavior(s) you do not want him to do.
Management includes:
• Setting up the environment so the dog cannot practice the unwanted behavior. For example, if your dog looks out the window and barks all day long, try blocking access to the window.
• Giving your dog the opportunity to be successful by determining what triggers the behavior and by creating distance from those triggers. For example, don’t force your dog to interact with other people or dogs if it obviously causes stress.
• Avoiding placing your dog in situations that cause an aggressive response, reactivity, fear, anxiety, or stress. Using specific equipment and safety measures such as leashes, baby gates and physical fences.

Identify the triggers! Figuring out what causes your dog to display aggressive behavior will be crucial. This can be the sight of a person or dog, a visitor entering the home, someone reaching towards the dog’s food bowl while eating etc. An easy way to identify the trigger(s) is to write down all the incidents that have occurred. Be as specific as you can. Think about the details: How the incident began, what occurred and how it ended. You will be able to identify triggers so that you can implement an appropriate behavior modification plan and management strategies.

Set-up time to work with and train your dog. Make sure to set up time to practice and work on your behavior modification exercises with your dog. These practice sessions should be meant to be positive learning experiences for your dog. Your goal should be to keep your dog below threshold so that no reactions occur. The purpose of practice sessions should be to give your dog the opportunity to learn and process everything in order to become successful. Practice sessions do not need to be long. They can be a few quick minutes.

Don’t expose your dog to situations in which your dog is likely to display aggressive or reactive behavior. Exposing your dog uncontrolled situations can make behavior issues worse. Instead, come up with a list of new things to do with your dog in those specific situations. This could mean placing your dog in a secure area of the house when visitors are over, or placing your dog on a leash. This will depend on your specific situation.

Punishing your dog can worsen behaviors such as fear, anxiety, stress, reactivity and aggression. Punishment includes: yelling or scolding, physical punishment, intimidation and fear tactics, leash corrections, the use of harsh tools like chokers, prong collars and shock collars. Taking these types of approaches can cause behaviors, even unrelated behaviors, to get worse. Instead, start teaching your dog what to do. Instead, reward behaviors you like, reward behaviors you ask your dog for and reward good behavior your dog offers.

Do not use unsafe training equipment. Using equipment like prong collars and shock collars can cause your dog and others to get hurt. Learn how to use these tools before putting them on your dog. Instructions on the package are not enough. Keep everyone safe by using equipment such as a 6ft or 8ft leash and a secure harness such as the Freedom Harness or Balance Harness. Other safety equipment that can be considered is a martingale collar, head halter such as a Halti Head Collar or even a muzzle.

• Do not go to the dog park or allow your dog off leash if your dog is aggressive, reactive, or fearful. Instead play with your dog in a securely fenced area such as a backyard, a sports court at a park that has a lock, or any other private area that is secure so that your dog and others are safe. One my recommendations to my clients is to use an app called Sniffspot, which allows dog owners to rent people’s backyards for a low-cost fee. It is like the Airbnb for dogs! Many of these yards are fenced, which is a great option for those who need a safe secure location. Make sure before renting a space, you verify it is fully fenced. When inquiring, you should also ask how tall the fence is, as some medium and large breeds can climb or scale fences. https://www.sniffspot.com/

Pay attention to the environment and your dog. Do not talk on the phone, listen to music or stop and chat with others. Instead, pay attention to your environment and your dog. Observe your dog’s behavior and body language. Look for signals that may cause your dog to react. Is your dog becoming aroused? Is your dog becoming hyper-vigilant, stressed, or anxious? Always remain CALM as your anxiety will trigger your dog’s reactive response.

Do not let people greet or touch your dog if your dog does not enjoy this. Avoid places and situations that may be problematic for your dog such as family gatherings, a busy trail or walking in town. If your dog does not like being greeted or reacts towards people in an aggressive way, then do not allow people to approach and greet your dog. And if your dog does not like being greeted by other dogs, then do not allow that either. It can make things worse for your dog and it can cause harm to the greeter, be it a person or dog. Depending whether this is an issue inside your home or out on a walk will depend upon the safety equipment that might be suggested to help safely manage this situation.

One of the most important pieces of information for you should be this: Two layers of safety are always best! Two layers of safety means literally having two safety items in place at once. If one layer of safety fails, then there is another in place. This will depend on the specific aggressive issues you are dealing with. Examples include: using a crate, locking doors, putting up secure bolting baby gates in the wall, using a muzzle, attaching your dog to a tether etc.

Additional Tips:

• Home Entrances: If your dog displays aggressive behavior when people enter the home, make sure to keep your doors locked so that friends, family and other visitors do not walk in unannounced and cause an incident.

• Give Visitors Instructions: Have a sign posted on your front door with instructions to call or text you when the visitor has arrived so that you can have your dog safely managed and so that you are prepared. Prior to the visitor’s arrival, give them specific instructions to prevent mistakes from occurring.

• Baby Gates and Barriers: When using baby gates and barriers make sure they are securely bolted in the wall or door frame. Pressurized gates are typically not strong enough to keep your dog contained. Also make sure the baby gate or barrier is tall enough that your dog cannot climb or scale it. I always recommend getting extra tall metal baby gates which are usually 4 feet tall. In some cases you may need to place a second baby gate above the first one so that it is double the height. In other cases, owners may have a contractor custom build a sturdy gate or barrier that can be bolted on hinges with a secure lock.
•
Muzzle Training: There is a bad stigma out in the world about a dog wearing a muzzle. However, muzzles are a safety tool that needs to be used in many situations to prevent people and/or other animals from getting injured. The first thing is to learn about the different types of muzzles on the market so that you have one that is safe and secure for your dog. Most behavior professionals recommend basket muzzles (or muzzles similar to these) because they do not restrict your dog from drinking, eating or panting. The most popular brand is the Baskerville Ultra Muzzle, which can be found at most pet stores and online. WARNING! There are many knockoff brands that look similar to the Baskerville Ultra Muzzle. The issue is that these muzzles are made from weaker materials. Some of these knockoff muzzles are very soft and flimsy, which can allow most dogs to bite someone through the muzzle. My advice would be to stick with the name brand Baskerville Ultra Muzzle if that is the type of muzzle that you are looking to purchase. The difference in price is not worth the liability of having a dog that will bite in a substandard muzzle.
• Tethering: Tethering a dog can be used as a layer of safety to keep your dog secure. I do not suggest just randomly tethering your dog up without training your dog to become comfortable with the tether. If you do not train your dog to become comfortable with the tether it could add additional stress and discomfort. There are a few ways to tether. At the end of the day you want to make sure you tether your dog to a place that is strong enough and secure enough. For large or powerful dogs, I suggest bolting an i-hook to a stud in the wall. Most people bolt the i-hook to the base or floor molding. There are also tethers called “Door Stop Tethers” designed to slip under a door which can be another option.
• Schedule fun time with your dog. Do not solely focus on just your behavior modification program. You can come up with a list of things your dog enjoys so that you can provide daily quality time with him. This can be cuddling together, physical exercise, games or even a dog sport. Remember to provide enjoyable activities with your dog as this is very important for your relationship together as a team.
• Additional Safety Equipment & “Safety Stations”: You may want to have what I call “Safety Stations” with this equipment readily available around the home, backyard or attached to you on a walk in the event something happens.

Sniffspot is designed for safe exercise and training in the safety of a private dog park. The best experiences and fun for you and your dog

AGGRESSION MANAGEMENTIf you live with a dog that displays aggressive behavior (lunging, growling, or even biting), using...
10/05/2026

AGGRESSION MANAGEMENT

If you live with a dog that displays aggressive behavior (lunging, growling, or even biting), using management to keep everyone safe is the first priority, along with a good behavior modification plan. This post deals with management only - you will ALSO NEED a training plan to correct the behavior. Several options are provided in my other posts.

What Is Management?
Change your dog’s environment to make it impossible or unlikely that he’ll do the specific behavior(s) you do not want him to do.
Management includes:
• Setting up the environment so the dog cannot practice the unwanted behavior. For example, if your dog looks out the window and barks all day long, try blocking access to the window.
• Giving your dog the opportunity to be successful by determining what triggers the behavior and by creating distance from those triggers. For example, don’t force your dog to interact with other people or dogs if it obviously causes stress.
• Avoiding placing your dog in situations that cause an aggressive response, reactivity, fear, anxiety, or stress. Using specific equipment and safety measures such as leashes, baby gates and physical fences.

Identify the triggers! Figuring out what causes your dog to display aggressive behavior will be crucial. This can be the sight of a person or dog, a visitor entering the home, someone reaching towards the dog’s food bowl while eating etc. An easy way to identify the trigger(s) is to write down all the incidents that have occurred. Be as specific as you can. Think about the details: How the incident began, what occurred and how it ended. You will be able to identify triggers so that you can implement an appropriate behavior modification plan and management strategies.

Set-up time to work with and train your dog. Make sure to set up time to practice and work on your behavior modification exercises with your dog. These practice sessions should be meant to be positive learning experiences for your dog. Your goal should be to keep your dog below threshold so that no reactions occur. The purpose of practice sessions should be to give your dog the opportunity to learn and process everything in order to become successful. Practice sessions do not need to be long. They can be a few quick minutes.

Don’t expose your dog to situations in which your dog is likely to display aggressive or reactive behavior. Exposing your dog uncontrolled situations can make behavior issues worse. Instead, come up with a list of new things to do with your dog in those specific situations. This could mean placing your dog in a secure area of the house when visitors are over, or placing your dog on a leash. This will depend on your specific situation.
Punishing your dog can worsen behaviors such as fear, anxiety, stress, reactivity and aggression. Punishment includes: yelling or scolding, physical punishment, intimidation and fear tactics, the use of harsh tools like chokers, prong collars and shock collars. Taking these types of approaches can cause behaviors, even unrelated behaviors, to get worse. Instead, start teaching your dog what to do. Instead, reward behaviors you like, reward behaviors you ask your dog for and reward good behavior your dog offers.

Do not use unsafe training equipment. Using equipment like prong collars and shock collars can cause your dog and others to get hurt. Learn how to use these tools before putting them on your dog. Instructions on the package are not enough. Keep everyone safe by using equipment such as a 6ft or 8ft leash and a secure harness such as the Freedom Harness or Balance Harness. Other safety equipment that can be considered is a martingale collar, head halter such as a Halti Head Collar or even a muzzle.

• Do not go to the dog park or allow your dog off leash if your dog is aggressive, reactive, or fearful. Instead play with your dog in a securely fenced area such as a backyard, a sports court at a park that has a lock, or any other private area that is secure so that your dog and others are safe. One my recommendations to my clients is to use an app called Sniffspot, which allows dog owners to rent people’s backyards for a low-cost fee. It is like the Airbnb for dogs! Many of these yards are fenced, which is a great option for those who need a safe secure location. Make sure before renting a space, you verify it is fully fenced. When inquiring, you should also ask how tall the fence is, as some medium and large breeds can climb or scale fences. https://www.sniffspot.com/

Pay attention to the environment and your dog. Do not talk on the phone, listen to music or stop and chat with others. Instead, pay attention to your environment and your dog. Observe your dog’s behavior and body language. Look for signals that may cause your dog to react. Is your dog becoming aroused? Is your dog becoming hyper-vigilant, stressed, or anxious? Always remain CALM as your anxiety will trigger your dog’s reactive response.

Do not let people greet or touch your dog if your dog does not enjoy this. Avoid places and situations that may be problematic for your dog such as family gatherings, a busy trail or walking in town. If your dog does not like being greeted or reacts towards people in an aggressive way, then do not allow people to approach and greet your dog. And if your dog does not like being greeted by other dogs, then do not allow that either. It can make things worse for your dog and it can cause harm to the greeter, be it a person or dog. Depending whether this is an issue inside your home or out on a walk will depend upon the safety equipment that might be suggested to help safely manage this situation.

One of the most important pieces of information for you should be this: Two layers of safety are always best! Two layers of safety means literally having two safety items in place at once. If one layer of safety fails, then there is another in place. This will depend on the specific aggressive issues you are dealing with. Examples include: using a crate, locking doors, putting up secure bolting baby gates in the wall, using a muzzle, attaching your dog to a tether etc.
Additional Tips:

• Home Entrances: If your dog displays aggressive behavior when people enter the home, make sure to keep your doors locked so that friends, family and other visitors do not walk in unannounced and cause an incident.

• Give Visitors Instructions: Have a sign posted on your front door with instructions to call or text you when the visitor has arrived so that you can have your dog safely managed and so that you are prepared. Prior to the visitor’s arrival, give them specific instructions to prevent mistakes from occurring.

• Baby Gates and Barriers: When using baby gates and barriers make sure they are securely bolted in the wall or door frame. Pressurized gates are typically not strong enough to keep your dog contained. Also make sure the baby gate or barrier is tall enough that your dog cannot climb or scale it. I always recommend getting extra tall metal baby gates which are usually 4 feet tall. In some cases you may need to place a second baby gate above the first one so that it is double the height. In other cases, owners may have a contractor custom build a sturdy gate or barrier that can be bolted on hinges with a secure lock.
•
Muzzle Training: There is a bad stigma out in the world about a dog wearing a muzzle. However, muzzles are a safety tool that needs to be used in many situations to prevent people and/or other animals from getting injured. The first thing is to learn about the different types of muzzles on the market so that you have one that is safe and secure for your dog. Most behavior professionals recommend basket muzzles (or muzzles similar to these) because they do not restrict your dog from drinking, eating or panting. The most
popular brand is the Baskerville Ultra Muzzle, which can be found at most pet stores and online. WARNING! There are many knockoff brands that look similar to the Baskerville Ultra Muzzle. The issue is that these muzzles are made from weaker materials. Some of these knockoff muzzles are very soft and flimsy, which can allow most dogs to bite someone through the muzzle. My advice would be to stick with the name brand Baskerville Ultra Muzzle if that is the type of muzzle that you are looking to purchase. The difference in price is not worth the liability of having a dog that will bite in a substandard muzzle.
• Tethering: Tethering a dog can be used as a layer of safety to keep your dog secure. I do not suggest just randomly tethering your dog up without training your dog to become comfortable with the tether. If you do not train your dog to become comfortable with the tether it could add additional stress and discomfort. There are a few ways to tether. At the end of the day you want to make sure you tether your dog to a place that is strong enough and secure enough. For large or powerful dogs, I suggest bolting an i-hook to a stud in the wall. Most people bolt the i-hook to the base or floor molding. There are also tethers called “Door Stop Tethers” designed to slip under a door which can be another option.
• Schedule fun time with your dog. Do not solely focus on just your behavior modification program. You can come up with a list of things your dog enjoys so that you can provide daily quality time with him. This can be cuddling together, physical exercise, games or even a dog sport. Remember to provide enjoyable activities with your dog as this is very important for your relationship together as a team.
• Additional Safety Equipment & “Safety Stations”: You may want to have what I call “Safety Stations” with this equipment readily available around the home, backyard or attached to you on a walk in the event something happens.

Sniffspot is designed for safe exercise and training in the safety of a private dog park. The best experiences and fun for you and your dog

08/17/2026

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO COME

Set him up for success.
As with all basic training, you want to start where your dog can be successful. If you take your pup to the most challenging and complicated situation and ask him to learn a new skill, you’re setting him up to fail. He’s going to learn to ignore you.
People will often take their dog to a dog park and start calling the dog. The dog hasn’t learned to come to you under those kinds of distraction and they ignore you. If you chase after them to try to catch them, they think it’s great fun. When they finally listen and come over to you, you might put them on a leash, tell them they’re a bad dog and leave the park. So the dog says to himself, “When I finally did listen, I lost the park.” This is a bad lesson for a dog to learn, because they won’t want to come to you if they’re going to lose out on play time.
Another common mistake people make is to practice the stay command and then call for their dog. You want to avoid this because it teaches the dog to be ready to break the stay at any moment, which doesn’t help your stay training. It also teaches the dog that they should be sitting still and staring at you before coming.
Set up the cue and start practicing.
A six month old dog is just starting to hit adolescence and explore their own independence. It’s easy to run into problems if you’re inconsistent with training a dog this age, so be sure to control his environment and set a consistent cue.
You should start inside with no distractions and high value treats. You can stand in front of your dog and give the cue. It’s extremely important to keep the cue the same — if you say “Fluffy, come,” for example, that has to stay your cue. Not “Fluffy,” not “Come here, Fluffy” — it’s “Fluffy, come.” That’s it. Again, that’s just an example — choose a cue that works for you! Adding a hand gesture, such as patting your leg or chest reinforces the cue, as long as it, too, is consistent. Always use a happy voice – no dog wants to come to a human who is angry or frustrated
Make it fun!
Say your cue and move back a few steps. Get excited about it. Treat it as a game instead of a command.
Give the command, move backward by three or five feet, and give your dog a high value treat when he follows. Do that around the house for a little bit. Another game you can play is if you have more than one person in the house, you can call the dog back and forth across a room and eventually do this throughout the household, in different rooms. Reward the dog ONLY for coming to you when called. Don’t ask them to sit or stay BEFORE rewarding them for the Come.
You can even turn it into a game of hide and seek. If you have a house with kids, the kids and dog will both love this. You can go around doors or duck behind the countertop and call the dog until they find you in a new space. Praise lavishly when you’re “found”.
Level-up your location.

Once your pup seems to have an understanding of the cue and he runs to you when you call him, you can go outside to a back yard, park or beach or open space. Again, don’t go straight to a dog park, because that’s a challenging environment. You want to go somewhere peaceful where a dog can be successful.
I would invest in a 30-foot leash — or maybe 50, depending on the space you have. Bring him to a park or a basketball court where that’s not a lot going on. Put him on a long leash and let him wander and check things out at five or ten feet away from you.
If your dog is sniffing the ground ten feet away and you give a cue and he turns and pays attention, get excited. Tell him he’s good. Get low, clap your hands, run away a bit – do something exciting that makes the dog want to follow you. Punctuate that with a high value reward so the dog sees that coming away from the thing he’s exploring and coming to you gets him a tasty treat and praise.
Over time, you can increase the distance and increase the distraction. That might mean your dog is at the full length of the thirty foot leash and sniffing the grass or watching dogs play. This isn’t necessarily something you’re doing on a city street; this should be somewhere where you have control over the environment.
For dogs that are really strong, you should be careful with a long leash so you don’t hurt your wrist or get your legs swept out from under you. In some cases, you can tether the dog to a tree or pole to make sure you’re not going to get hurt.

Get to the dog park.

Eventually, you can go to a dog park. Wait for the dog to have a moment when you feel that they can listen to you. For example, if I was at the park with my dog and she was engaged with three of her dog friends, I might wait a second. When she breaks off to the side to catch her breath, that’s when I would call her over to tell her she’s the best. I’d give her a treat or some water and a quick belly rub, then let her go back to play. When you actually plan to leave the park, head to the exit and wait a bit. Your dog may join you so you can leash and leave. If not, wait until your pup is not engaged before calling.

Finally, one important note to keep in mind: under no circumstances should a dog ever be allowed off the leash if she is being walked anywhere near cars or if your dog is a breed known for sight-hunting (Afghan, Basenji, Greyhound, Saluki, Borzoi, Whippet and others). Off-leash walking is to be reserved for hiking trails, enclosed parks and other completely safe locations. Remember that no matter how good your dog’s recall skills are, no dog is guaranteed to come when called 100% of the time. Better to play it safe than sorry!

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08/02/2026

IS YOUR DOG HAPPY OR HYPER?
A dog that’s spinning in circles, jumping up and down, or barking and yipping is not a happy dog. These are all signs of over-excitement. The dog has excess energy and the only way her brain knows how to deal with it is to work it off physically.
Unfortunately, people often interpret these signs as happiness. Many also tend to think that it’s cute when a dog acts like this and wind up unknowingly encouraging the behavior. Curb your dog’s excitement and you’ll be preventing misbehavior in the future.
An overexcited dog is not happy. A calm dog is. Here are a few steps to keep your dog from being constantly over-excited and to be calm, submissive and happy.
Don’t Encourage Excitement. The most important thing to remember when your dog approaches you with excitement is that what you do will determine whether such behavior becomes more or less frequent. The worst thing you can do is give affection or attention to an excited dog. This is just telling him that you like what he is doing. He’ll learn that being excited gets a reward, so he’ll keep doing it. The best way to react to an excited dog is to ignore him. Use no touch, no talk, no eye contact. If he tries to jump on you, correct that behavior as well.
Reward calm behavior. This is the flip side of the first tip. When your dog is in a calm, submissive state, then you can give affection and attention, which will reinforce that state. If your dog is treat motivated, then reward his behavior when he is calm. Through a combination of ignoring excited behavior and rewarding calm behavior, you will help your dog to naturally and instinctively move into the calmer state.
Wear your dog out. A tired dog is a calm dog. More exercise is better.
Engage the nose. Scents like lavender and vanilla can help calm your dog down, especially if you associate them with times when the dog is calm — like having a scented air freshener near her bed. Be sure that your dog doesn’t have any allergies to particular scents and ask your vet for recommendations on the scents that work best at calming dogs down. Don’t overdo the scents. Dog’s noses are 200 times more sensitive than humans. A little scent goes a long way.
Most importantly, your dog cannot be calm if you aren’t, so you need to check your own energy. When you have to correct your dog, how do you do it? Can you stop the unwanted behavior with just a nudge or a quiet word, or do you tend to shout “No” at him over and over? If you’re in the second category, then you’re contributing to your dog’s excitement. Here’s an image to keep in mind: two soldiers in the woods. They’ve come to a clearing and see the enemy ahead. One of them starts to move forward. How does the other soldier stop this? Not by yelling. You’ve probably already pictured the move in your mind — an arm across the chest or a hand on the shoulder, without saying a word. Dogs are hunters, so they have an instinctive understanding of this kind of correction. If the group came up on a deer in a clearing and the Pack Leader barked to tell them to stop, the deer would be long gone and none of them would eat. The leaders stop the pack with nothing but their energy and body language.
If your dog is naturally high-energy and excitable, it can take a while to see results with these techniques. The important part is that you remain consistent in using them and don’t give up. Chances are that your dog didn’t become a hyperactive wild child overnight, so you’re not going to undo it overnight. But you’ll be surprised how quickly you’ll start to see a change once you commit. Consistency is the key to success.

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06/27/2026

NOISES ON THE 4TH OF JULY

Just a quick tip to help your friend(s) on the 4th of July. All that noise is often an unwanted part of the festivities and your pet can become fearful or unsure. The best way to deal with this is NOT to comfort a scared dog. The mind you pet is the mind you get. Soothing a fearful dog gives them permission to be scared and says you approve of the behavior. Better to put on some background noise that is familiar and fairly loud - TV, fan, A/C or music and then behave as if everything is normal. If a loud "boom" causes your friend distress, distract with a small treat or toy. Remain calm and do not let your stress become theirs. The more YOU are distressed for them, the more stressed they will become. You KNOW everything is OK - and you can convince them this is true if you relax. If you're easily startled or scared, try earplugs. You can also try sitting on a chair or couch with your dog sitting beside you. Put your arm around your dog with your palm flat on the dog's chest and squeeze slowly and rather tightly (not to cause discomfort) You are mimicking a product called a "thundershirt" which also works well for some dogs .
We can all do what's best for our pets. They rely on us.

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