Proper Paws Dog Training LLC

Proper Paws Dog Training LLC Through personalized training, I will provide the structure and guidance needed to unlock your rescue’s potential.
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08/30/2026

Regardless of the skill you are looking to teach the key to training multiple dogs is to start with each one individually. While it might seem like this approach will take more time, it’s actually much faster in the long run.

08/30/2026

When working with reactive dogs, it can be overwhelming, especially if you have never worked with the behavior in the past. here are some things to keep in mind while training:

Fristration-based reactivity is driven by the want to interact with a trigger (another dog, person, etc.) but the inability to do so. This is often taught to our dogs over time by how we allow our dogs to interact with other dogs. If your dog pulls and barks to say “hi” and you allow them to do so, you are rewarding the reactive behaviors through inappropriate reinforcements.

The goal here would be to teach your dog how to acknowledge the trigger but redirect their attention back onto you as the handler rather than assume they get to interact or play with the trigger.

Fear-based reactivity is driven by your dog wanting the trigger to go away and leave them alone. They are attempting to make space. This is caused by fear or anxiety and often behaviors increase when the dog sees or more so is approached by a trigger.

For fear-based behaviors, the goal is to build a positive association with the trigger while also focusing on teaching calm behaviors and advocating for your dog’s space when needed.

Training reactive behaviors can take time. Don’t rush the process, focus on baby steps, and celebrate the small wins!

08/14/2026

If you have a dog that is a flight risk, there are two things I want you focusing on: boundaries at the door and a recall.

When I teach boundaries, I do not teach a sit, down, stay, wait, or anything else at the door. I teach the overarching concept of “you do not pass this threshold until given a release or recall command.”

When teaching this skill, I always have a way to maintain both accountability and safety, which is what the long lead is used for. It is held by no one and tied to nothing. It simply drags behind the dog so we can begin teaching the concept of off-leash skills without actually giving them off-leash freedom yet. Because if your dog does make the wrong choice, it is a lot easier to step on a 50 ft leash than it is to try and grab your dog’s collar as they run past you.

When you are first starting out, you can absolutely attach that long lead to your dog’s harness while they are learning the concept. But as they begin making the choice you want more consistently, I want to start transitioning that long lead to the collar they normally wear around the house. Unless your dog wears their harness all day, the goal is to make this look as much like your real-life scenario as possible. We want the skill to work when someone leaves the front door open, not only when your dog realizes their training equipment is on.

I want you to continue using the long lead until your dog has proven they will consistently make the right choice and are forming the habits we want. If you remove it too soon, you risk giving your dog more freedom than they are ready for and teaching tool dependency instead of actually teaching the skill.

If you also own a flight risk of a dog, comment “BOUNDARIES” below and I’ll send you a video showing you how to begin teaching this skill, along with a link to the long leads I like to use!

08/12/2026

Nail care has to happen. Vet visits have to happen. Storms are going to happen. We can either wait until those situations occur and struggle through them, or use training to prepare our dogs for success beforehand!

08/09/2026

One of the most common training requests I get is how to teach a dog to hold place when guests come into the home. Instead of apologizing profusely for our dog’s behaviors, we can keep our dog(s) in a calmer state of mind while on place, allowing guests to enter the house without being bombarded!

First, your dog will need to know “Place”. If they don’t know the place command yet, drop a comment letting me know you need help with place, and I will send you information to help get you started!

Once they know place, you can move on with the following:

1. Begin by putting your dog in either place or stay about 15+ feet away from your door.
2. Work on introducing the front door by doing a sequence of stays. Walk back and forth between your dog and the door, each time doing something a little more difficult with the door (I.e., jiggle the handle, crack it open, open all the way, pretend like you’re picking up a package, pretend to greet someone, etc.)
3. Once successful with the door, bring in the distraction of someone at the door. Start with someone just at the door (as if someone were to drop something off). As your dog gets better, move to the individual coming into the house.
4. As your guest walks in, you go back to the dog and reward the behavior.

Once your guest comes inside your home you can release your dog

Things to remember:
• The most important thing about teaching this is consistency. If you open the door and your dog breaks, make sure to close the door, put them back, and try again!

• If your dog jumps when you release them, you can either 1. use a leash to help guide or redirect as needed. 2. Have them hold place longer and focus on the mindset. Or 3. Focus on teaching them how to approach without jumping. I have a how-to video for this as well in my highlights!

• If you own multiple dogs, make sure you teach this to them individually first and then practice with them together!

Looking for more help? Drop a comment and I would love to discuss more ways to help with your training!

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