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Chesapeake Safe Harbor Chesapeake Safe Harbor (CSH) is a 501(c)3 non-profit organization focused on rescuing and rehoming Chesapeake Bay Retrievers.

GwR 648 Help: Chessie Rescue Dominates my Alpha, and bullies my weakest pack member…Traditional vs. Alternative/ Chessie...
09/09/2026

GwR 648 Help: Chessie Rescue Dominates my Alpha, and bullies my weakest pack member…
Traditional vs. Alternative/ Chessie Approach
Our story begins...
"I am brand new to the breed as I just recently became a foster mom to Mocha, a beautiful 6 year old who was used to make puppies her whole life...
She is 100% love-bug to me and my husband.
She is very dominant and she's coming into my house-of-a-lot-of-dogs and it's not going very smoothly. She wants to challenge my alpha of the pack and has tried to go after my weakest pack member."
Those are the highlights of post that has just been shared in the 'CBR Love' group.
Here is my 'Growing with Raffie' post in response, and I'll be setting up time to talk with this person fostering their first Chessie, to guide them through 'Next Steps'...
AFTER reading Mocha's idea...
"to challenge my alpha of the pack, and to go after my weakest pack member." ... and..BEFORE we just leap in with our old knee-jerk response of "You Must Be Alpha... Go Fetch the E-Collar... or whatever..."..Let's think about this for a moment...
Some people would focus on when the issue occurs, aiming to exert control or dominance over Mocha in that situation...
Yet, these situations occur at random moments, with minimal notice.
Also, by the time that we notice it and act,..Mocha will be fired up; adrenaline and noradrenaline surging through her body.
I'll suggest that time is NOT the Best Time for focusing on Education and Learning.
That's true for the dog, and also for the dog owner seeking to re-assert their 'Alpha-Status' that appears to have just been challenged.
The better approach, IMHO, is to make changes to the Relationship that she has with YOU first...
and then to pivot, and use that to convince her that she's got to re-think her decisions towards the other pack members.
In abridged form, there are two separate paths:
1. What you have NOW:
*Chessie* says: "I'm # 1 over your old alpha dog..., and the weakest pack member deserves to get picked on... "
Regular Dog Owner logic: "You are Not to go after the alpha position OR to bully the weakest pack member. I can apply force if need be..."
Chessie says: "That's poor logic! As a Chessie, I am # 1 , obviously!...and the weakest pack member will feel my wrath !!"
Regular Dog Owner logic: "You are STUBBORN... and I will apply force... often"
2. Roger's approach: Provide the Chessie with better logic -
Alternative Chessie owner: "Hey Mocha! I know that you love me LOTS... but do you RESPECT me?"
Chessie says: "Sure! We're good friends : ) "
Alternative Chessie owner: "Yes, we are... but take another look at what underpins that connection;
I am the COACH, and You, my Brown Clown, are my Trusty MVP !!
You are the Best, Most Valuable Player...
That role suits you and we make a good team, Yes? "
Chessie says: "You bet!"
Alternative Chessie owner pauses for a second... gives their MVP a surprised look...and says warmly, and yet seriously...
"Try that response again, and include a little more RESPECT..."
Chessie understands in a nano-second that COACH is a Rank above MVP... and this has implications...
Chessie says: "Yes, You bet, COACH!"
At this point, we will rename our "Alternative Chessie owner".
We will call them 'COACH', just like the new MVP has learned to do...
COACH says: "We need to make some adjustments regarding your attitude towards other members of this Team. Are you listening to me?"
Chessie says: "Yes COACH. Hearing you Loud & Clear..."

Chessies are not your regular dog(!)...
and yet many people still try to deal with them in very traditional ways.
Perhaps you know of a Chessie who lives on 'even-terms' with their owner ?
Or perhaps you know of a Chessie who owns the role of 'COACH' ...and maybe lets their owner borrow it on a temporary basis when food or an e-collar is present?!
I suggest to you that: A Chessie should NEVER be 'COACH'.
They can teach us many things. We have a lot to learn!
That works best when a four-legged MVP is teaching their two-legged COACH. It needs to be handled with Respect!
When Chessies assume the role of COACH...
We can be in for a very bumpy ride !!
I like talking to Chessie owners and also to Chessies : )
If a chat with you might be Helpful, please reach out earlier rather than later...


Anyone who hasn't joined the 'CBR Love' group will be missing most of the 'Growing with Raffie' posts...Try explaining THAT to your Chessie... !!
https://facebook.com/groups/chesapeakebayretrieverlove

GwR 642 Congratulations you have a new puppy (or rescue adoption) !!Now what ?!Wonderful experiences, and a few frustrat...
09/01/2026

GwR 642 Congratulations you have a new puppy (or rescue adoption) !!
Now what ?!
Wonderful experiences, and a few frustrations, will soon be yours : )
Where to start?!
The first FOUR items on the list below summarize 'Success', IMHO, for you and your puppy - or an older dog coming through Rescue
1. What to teach first...?!
I'd suggest it's that you are a fun & safe person. Be their FRIEND. Show that you can be 'trusted', but you also need to be 'Respected'. THAT is at the core of successful Puppy raising : )..gently show your pup that you are NOT to be pushed around & maltreated. You don't need to dominate... when you think about being the Coach/ Leader (See items # 2 - 4)

2. The best 'BAD HABITS' are ones that never have a chance to become 'habits'!
(Once they don't need that quick potty break...) If you let them out of the crate when they are barking, they will believe their barking called you into action. From their perspective, they are training you...
Think about *their interpretation* of every single situation... as what 'works' for a Chessie gets repeated !!

3. Way more effective than 'Punishments', are 'Diversions & Distractions'. Their attention span is minimal now, so Anticipate to Avoid issues; & Distract/ Re-focus often.
It's unfair to be constantly punishing a young pup as their whole day could become a battle. If you challenge & battle your pup, they will respond in kind. What's that going to do to their relationship with you? : (

4. Engaging a pup from the front you'll meet teeth. Arrive with chewable toy in one hand for the pup's mouth, while your second hand delivers comfort and shows that you & your hands can be Trusted.
Also, playing & interacting from behind the pup's head is a 'toothless zone' so try positioning yourself behind your pup -
If biting never happens to your hands, you'll wonder why others have such big problems with it.

5. Crate training is for safety, disengaging & extended sleeping (to support their growth). Plan many short interactions with breaks - You are NOT on 24 hour entertainment duty!

6. YOU are responsible for your pup's actions (just like parents are responsible for their kid's actions). If your pup nips your kid.... think what YOU should do differently going forward (no unsupervised puppy interactions/ increase your focus/ ...)

7. Look into Enrichment games & activities. There are many great sources, but make sure they are age appropriate : )

8. Discovery & Socialization: This is a BIG & Important one!! 3 - 12 week old puppies are happy & curious about ~every new experience. Talk with your breeder about what they have done, & recommend. Check for less-dog-frequented stores, such as Joanne Fabric, Michael's, Ross, Bath & Body Works, etc. Your pup can be carried/ in the cart, or even puppy training class with necessary sanitation precautions against common infectious diseases. Take baby steps - Make the experience positive & fun !

9. Insurance for puppies is cheap... especially when you remember that puppies eat 'everything' & might need $$ extraction surgery. I'd plan on the financial safety net for a minimum of two years. By then, you'll know if your pup is accident prone : )

10. Please DON'T over-exercise a young puppy as you can injure, or even ruin, their underdeveloped body. Check info like: https://www.bristoldogschool.co.uk/.../exersize-and-your...
*Summary*
Go back & re-read items #1 - #4... Twice !!
The pup's challenges (such as over-excitement, or potty-training, etc.) are actually YOUR challenges as 'Coach'. The two of you are on the same team.
Be patient !
Be creative !
Find low confrontation methods. See if you can go a whole day (or week) *without* saying "No!" to your pup... by thinking faster than them, by Diverting & Distracting.
And avoid the creation of bad habits : )

Good luck!!
Roger at Chesapeake Safe Harbor rescue




Anyone who hasn't joined the 'CBR Love' group will be missing most of the 'Growing with Raffie' posts...Try explaining THAT to your Chessie... !!
https://facebook.com/groups/chesapeakebayretrieverlove

GwR 635  Happy National Dog Day 2026 : ) Share a Fun Photo of your Canine...They don’t ask for much: Only a place beside...
08/26/2026

GwR 635 Happy National Dog Day 2026 : )
Share a Fun Photo of your Canine...
They don’t ask for much:
Only a place beside us, a hand to pet them,
and someone to come home to. Yet somehow, they give us more than we could ever repay
with their loyalty, comfort, and unconditional love.
Add a Photo: Fun - Serious - Silly... ??
Happening NOW in the 'CBR Love' group
Link: https://facebook.com/groups/chesapeakebayretrieverlove/permalink/1263120532563775


Keeping it REAL' with No AI is Chessie-Preferred in CBR Love ; )
To JOIN, send a PM to: Roger Booth

GwR 619 Chessies aren't for everyone...​A couple of weeks ago, I spent some time collecting about two dozen Articles/ Vi...
07/27/2026

GwR 619 Chessies aren't for everyone...
​A couple of weeks ago, I spent some time collecting about two dozen Articles/ Videos/ Posts/ ... that discuss whether a CBR might be a suitable dog for 'YOU'.
​That Post was GwR 614 Should I consider getting a CBR ?!
​.
​I didn't include the 40-year old article from the Wildfowl Magazine that is below. It has now been added into the 'Search Chessie Posts' spreadsheet, with almost 900 links to useful posts and other sources of information. The links are available as a free service to the members of 'CBR Love' group. Non-Members are encouraged to JOIN... as are the Friends of CBR Love members.
​.
As a breed, they have features that some people find charming, but that some people find mildly unpleasant and some people find downright intolerable. (ha!!)
​.
Chesapeakes Aren't For Everyone - by James B. Spencer
Reprinted from Wildfowl Magazine, June/July, 1986
Ask any Chessie owner whether you should get a Bay Dog, and that will probably be the first statement he/she will make. The owner of almost any other sporting breed will normally give you an unqualified endorsement. You know the routine; great pet, outstanding hunter, perfect watch dog, smartest canine there ever was, beautiful, faithful, will fetch your slippers, set out your decoys, and even shoot your birds for you if you're having an off day. But Chessie owners will be more cautious, more circumspect. They'll tell you that their dogs can be difficult, that they are independent, and sometimes a bit cantankerous. Not for everyone: that's for sure. And there are always stories that go with the caution. The pro who had to use a garbage can lid as a shield when punishing a Chessie. The Chessie that "treed" two pros on top of their truck when they tried to use an electronic collar on him. And on and on. Not for everyone. Yet the very people who say this most often are fanatically devoted to the breed. If you doubt that, just make an unkind remark about the Bay dogs in their company. Then you will find out what they really think of the breed; best of foul weather dog on earth: tough, fearless, tireless; unbelievable markers: the only breed to have in the blind with you when the chips are down and the odds are against you: something special. Special, unique, difficult to explain.
​.
That is the Chesapeake Bay Retriever. Developed in (the USA), the Chessie is all Yankee. There is not an English or European trait in his make-up, and perhaps that is why he is so difficult to define, for our canine frame of reference is English or European. To understand a Chessie, you must understand the American character as it has developed over the past four or five centuries, and particular as it evolved during the 19th and early 20th centuries, when the Bay dogs were developed. That is the American character which is reemerging now in the 1980s. Keep that in mind when I tell you about the Chessie. First off, the Chesapeake is a big, strong dog, taller and more powerful on the average than the other retrievers. I have been steadying my own young, 80-pound Bay dog, "Beaver", recently, and let me tell you, my left arm is now several inches longer than it used to be. "Beaver" hits the end of the belt cord like no dog I have ever steadied before. Sometimes I feel like I have lost a fast freight. However, these dogs were developed to retrieve duck and geese from the Chesapeake Bay all day and even into the night back when there were no limits, so their size and strength should be no surprise. Even today a wildfowler looking for a goose dog has a better chance of getting what he wants – a dog that will tangle with and subdue a tough, old crippled giant Canada – if he opts for the breed from the Bay. That is not to say that there are no good goose dogs from other breeds, for there are, but the odds are better on a pup if it is a Chessie.
​.
The Chesapeake also has a coat more suited to really bad weather than other retrievers. His harsh, oily, outer coat hides a woolly, water-resistant undercoat, and the combination will normally keep his skin dry even after hours of retrieving. Most retriever breeds have double outer coats, but not like a Chessie's. The pungent aroma of this oily, outer coat may make him less than welcome in the confines of the living room, but it smells like perfume to a duck hunter when the dog brings in a cripple after a long chase. Originally, the dogs were dark brown, but the lighter "deadgrass" color was developed somewhere along the line to better camouflage the dog. However, dogs do not disturb the birds, so the only real advantage in all these shades is that they allow each hunter to choose his personal favorite. I like the dark ones; if you like the lighter shades, fine. We can both be happy. The overall conformation of the breed is functional rather than beautiful. For those hunters who feel that "handsome is as handsome does", the Chessie is gorgeous, above all the other breeds, for one look tells you the dog "can do." He is not as pretty as a Golden or as sleek as a Labrador, but he catches your eye nevertheless. He isn't the fleet-footed s**t back or wide receiver, he's more the pulling guard, the linebacker, or the tight end, and he has his own poetry, his own métier​.
​.
The Chessie is mentally, as well physically, tough. He attacks a job with a single-minded determination and a sense of self-confidence that makes him difficult to dissuade. He marks well, remembers well, and has the cunning to deal with most situations that come up in a day's water-fowler, so he prefers to hunt with someone who will allow him some latitude. He seems to say, "You call and shoot the birds, and then leave the rest to me; I won't interfere with your job if you won't interfere with mine.”Handling" a Chessie with whistle and arm signals, especially on a fall that he thinks he saw, is apt to be difficult; even on a blind retrieve, you had better put him on the bird quickly or he will decide he can find it quicker on his own, and turn you off. He is a free spirit who wants to do his own job his own way, without having the boss breathing down his neck all the time. The Chesapeake's love for water is so pronounced that sometimes it seems they would rather swim than walk. I have always introduced Goldens and Labs to water very carefully, after all, these breeds were developed as land retrievers in England and have only been adapted to American water-fowling in this century. True, both breeds have adapted nicely, but still a little caution first is a good idea. The Chessie was developed as a water dog from the start and takes to this medium like the other breeds do to land work. When he was a little puppy, my own "Beaver" dove into the first water I showed him, swam about 40 yards without once beating the water with his front feet, and tried to uproot a small, dead tree in the middle of the pond before returning to me. No cautions introductions needed for him.
The Chessie is a good friend and a bad enemy. If he has accepted you as one of his people, he will die for you or kill for you. He will protect you, sometimes when you don't really need it, which can be embarrassing. I remember a Saturday many years ago when I had lunch in Marge and Sam Wolsey's fifth wheeler which was parked at pro D.L Walter's place. Sam and I were sitting on a sofa and Marge was in the kitchen. Their young Chessie jumped up on the sofa and sat between Sam and me. He didn't look to the left or right, just sat there staring ahead. As the three of us talked, I unconsciously reached up to scratch the dog's chin. Still looking straight ahead, he started a low growl that told me I had just made a mistake! I took my hand away, but that didn't change a thing. The dog continued to growl almost inaudibly – although I could hear him distinctly, believe me. I told Sam that his dog was about to have me for lunch. Then Sam noticed the growling, so he told the dog to go over to the other side of the room and lay down. The dog obeyed, but he never took his eyes off me all the time I was there. Later, I figured out what the problem was. The dog wasn't sitting on the sofa to be sociable; he was protecting Sam – since he didn't know me at all.
​.
Understanding that protective quality is crucial to getting along with Chessies. If you don't know the dog, don't "violate its space" or that of its owner. Actually, that is a pretty good rule to follow with any dog of any breed. However, the rube who just has to show what a great hand he is with dogs runs a greater risk of ending up with a punctured epidermis if he takes uninvited liberties with a Chessie than he does with most other sporting breeds. On the other hand, the person who uses common sense allows the dog make the initial overtures, and even then takes it easy until the dog is comfortable will have little difficulty with most Chessies. Chessies form definite opinions about people and choose their friends cautiously. They have a strong sense of dignity, and insist that friend and enemy alike respect that dignity. Probably the best one word description for the breed is "passionate". They love with great intensity; they hate the same way; and even their indifference toward strangers has a passion in it – their eyes say a steely, "You had better leave me alone, buddy. Because of this passionate nature, a Chessie is best trained by his owner, that on human being the dog accepts totally. The dog will do things simply to please that one person that no amount of punishment could induce it to do for anyone else. Sure, a good pro can train a Chessie, but it will not be easy. The reason the breed has the reputation for being tough, hard-headed, independent, and just plain mean is that they don't really give much of a hoot what anyone thinks except for that one special man or woman. A pro can use training techniques that works nicely for Labs, but the Chessie couldn't care less what the pro wants, so he doesn't respond like Labs do. Sometimes a pro can get rough enough to gain grudging compliance but more often the dog just endures the pain and continues to figuratively flip off the pro. The best way to involve a pro training of a Chessie is for the owner to train the dog under the pro's guidance. Most pros have a fee structure for this kind of work. It allows the Chessie to learn new ways to please the boss: it allows the boss to learn how to train the dog; and it saves the pro the problems he would have in motivating a dog that is passionately indifferent in the normal pro/dog relationship.
Now, I'll let you in on the best-kept-secret of Chessie training; they are a soft breed! Yeah, those tough critters that show no sign of fear or pain when subduing an equally-tough giant Canada, those weatherproof ice-breakers that seem not to notice the difference between an early bluebird day and a-late-season blizzard, those unbelievably tough Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are soft and sensitive to the approval or disapproval of their owners. In this characteristic they are the equal of the Golden retriever. Train a Chessie like you would a Golden, with lots of praise and appreciation, and your training will go easy. Use the harsher approach that works well with the Lab, and he will turn you off – in fact, he may turn on you if you go too far. Where the Golden will sulk and quit under too much pressure from his owner, the Chessie will brood and be resentful. Many of the most successful Chessie trainers have been women, because of their greater sensitivity of the animal's need for praise and appreciation. I have to chuckle when I hear someone say that the Chessie is the ideal dog for the hardboiled, heavy-handed, macho man. Actually, the Chessie is the worst dog possible for such a person- the dog probably won't accept his training, and he may take the man apart if pushed too far. This doesn't mean that a Chessie won't accept correction. He will, but it should be within a framework of positive motivation (praise and petting) and the dog should understand what he did wrong. The owner's disapproval is heavy punishment for the dog – there's seldom any need for a whip or high voltage. If the dog is conditioned to work to please his owner, and if the owner shows his pleasure regularly with praise and petting, the withdrawal of those rewards plus a few unkind words are usually enough to convince the toughest Chessie.
One more important point: Chessies can be a problem around other dogs. While I've seen Chessies romping and playing together like a bunch of lap dogs, I am not anxious to allow my own Chessie, "Beaver", out with dogs he doesn't know well. He's fine with kennel mates, and he has never been in a fight with any other dog - but I want to keep it that way, so I am very careful with him. It may seem that I am saying, "Chessies are not for everyone", just as so many other Chessie owners do. Maybe, I am too, but my intention is not to disparage the breed. I want to make sure that each Chessie pup is properly matched with a suitable owner, one who understands ALL the breed's characteristics and finds them not only acceptable but fascinating. I have seen what too much popularity has done to the Lab and Golden, and I don't want to have any part of giving serious Chessies breeders those same kinds of problems, believe me. Right now the Chessie is a distant third to the Lab and golden in the annual AKC registrations. That's fine, as long there are enough Bay puppies to take care of all the people who really need them and wouldn't be satisfied with any other breed.
Who is the ideal Chessie owner?
Well, first he/she should be a dedicated wildfowler, a fanatic rather than a dabbler. A practical bent of mind is an advantage, too. For example, when someone asks you what is the most beautiful shotgun ever manufactured, if you're stuck trying to decide between the boxy, old Browning Automatic and the exposed-hammer Wi******er Model 97 pump, you're probably Chessie material. The Golden owner will name an English side-by-side, and the Lab man a Japanese Over/Under. The Chessie person admires a gun that can take it and take it and still knock the next duck or goose stone dead. Then he/she will be determined to do the training rather than farming it out to a pro. Finally, he/she will accept the passionate, protective nature of the breed and be willing to see that these traits do not get the dog in trouble. That means having proper kenneling at home, and maintaining reasonable control while training and hunting. I guess what I am saying is that Chesapeakes may not be for everyone, but they just might be for you.


GwR 605 Got a Hot Body ? Get a Cool Head !!Head dunk rapidly cools overheated dogs to Avoid Heat stroke"Cool First, Tran...
06/18/2026

GwR 605 Got a Hot Body ? Get a Cool Head !!
Head dunk rapidly cools overheated dogs to Avoid Heat stroke
"Cool First, Transport Second" is a lifesaving, pre-hospital protocol for pets experiencing heatstroke, recommended by the American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care.
Dogs are notoriously bad at dissipating body heat. When the body temperature is above 105°F (≈40.6°C), the dog may be suffering from heatstroke. (Hyperthermia is elevated body temperature - over 101.5°F (≈38.6°C).
One of the most pressing issues in caring for active dogs, especially working dogs with heavy physical demands, is treating overheating, which can quickly turn into heat stroke. Their body temperature can continue to rise, even after vigorous exercise has been halted.
Body temperatures of 105°F (≈40.6°C) or higher, cause serious complication risks, including organ damage and death. Working dogs are at a greater risk because drive and motivation can override physiologic cues to stop.
[Last year, I believe a Chessie died from heatstroke after training - can someone PM me location or other details please, so I can reference them here?]
Dr. Cynthia Otto, at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine and a board-certified specialist in both Emergency and Critical Care as well as Canine Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation, has been a leader in working-dog health research for decades.
She was a Finalist for the 2025 Canine Health Discovery of the Year Award - with her research project to answer two important questions:
>
1. What is the best method to cool an overheated dog?
2. Could a simple behavior be leveraged for cooling an overheated dog?
>
The research project considered six different cooling techniques:
1 - Stand in shallow water
2 - Stand on alcohol-treated pads
3 - Place an ice pack on the neck
4 - Place a wet towel on the neck
5 - Place wet towels in the armpits
6 - Voluntarily dunk head in ~70°F water *Or pour water over the dog's head
The equipment for these techniques could be available to an owner when out hiking. The dogs were tested outside, to simulate real life conditions.
Dogs with suspected heat stroke should be limited to small amounts of water, or else they might vomit/ choke/ suffer bloat.
Research Results: A voluntary head dunk in cool water (approx. 70°F) is one of the fastest, science-backed ways to cool down an overheated dog. Alternative is to pour water over a dog's head.
However, *If* a body of water is available, (such as: Sea/ Lake/ River/ Pond/ Swimming Pool/ Bath/ etc.), remember that Cold or Tepid Water Immersion (~70°F / ~20°C) is the *MOST* effective cooling method for dogs. The water must be cooler than the dog...
Never Use Ice Water: Extreme cold water constricts blood vessels and traps heat inside the dog's body - worsening internal organ damage : (
1. Immersion in water for healthy, conscious dogs
2. Evaporative cooling - spray or pour water on the dog, and ensure air movement over them using fans/air conditioning. This can be used on all dogs, including older, unconscious or unwell dogs
NOTE: Placing a dog in a vehicle *SLOWED* cooling, post-exercise !!!
The longer a dog’s temperature ... remains high, the more damage is likely.
If you must transport a hot dog in a vehicle:
1. Cool the dog before they enter the vehicle.
2. Cool down the vehicle before the dog enters.
3. Ensure air movement over the dog during travel, e.g. air conditioning or open windows.
Why does head dunking/ wetting work so well?
Dogs have only a couple of ways to cool off—blood vessel expansion and panting. When dogs pant, they evaporate moisture from their tongues, nasal passages, and the lining of their lungs, and this cools them down as air passes over the moist tissue. They also cool off via vasodilation. Blood vessels, especially in the ears and face, expand, bringing overheated blood closer to the surface to cool down.
Dr. Otto noted: "Dogs pant to regulate heat, which increases blood flow to the head.
Cool the head, and you cool the dog faster.”
To AVOID Heat Stroke:
- Limit intense, outdoor activity
- Provide Shade & fresh water
- Monitor for early signs or trouble
- Make access to A/C available
Remember that overweight dogs have an increased risk, even at moderate temperatures (70°F+). The fat acts as insulation, making it harder to cool down. They are also more prone to respiratory difficulties, as added pressure from excess fat complicates breathing and panting.

WARNING !!
Early signs of heatstroke include:
- heavy panting and rapid breathing (Resting Rate ~10 - 30 breaths/ minute)
- excessive drooling,
- dry mucous membranes,
- bright red gums and tongue,
- skin that’s hot to the touch,
- higher heart rate. (Large dog: Normal range: 60 - 100 BPM

(To check a dog's femoral artery pulse: Place your index & middle fingers flat against the inner thigh of the dog's hind leg, about halfway between the knee and where the leg meets the belly. Press very gently until you feel the rhythmic pulse. Avoid using your thumb, as its own pulse can interfere. Count the beats for 15 Seconds, then multiply by 4 to find BPM - Beats per Minute.
Alternative location: Left Chest - Place the flat of your hand on the left side of the dog's rib cage, just behind the front elbow to feel the heartbeat),
- Affected dogs become hyperactive and may have difficulty maintaining balance.
If exposure to excessive heat continues, dogs will go into shock:
- pale mucous membranes with white or blue gums,
- very rapid heart rate & a drop in blood pressure,
- The dog hyperventilates,
- Dehydration becomes more severe. Pupils dilate, the pulse becomes more irregular, and the dog has muscle tremors. They may become lethargic and unwilling to move, urinate or defecate uncontrollably, collapse, and become comatose.
Sources:
Research Paper: Voluntary head dunking after exercise-induced hyperthermia rapidly reduces core body temperature in dogs
https://avmajournals.avma.org/.../12/javma.24.06.0368.xml
https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/heatstroke-in-dogs/
https://www.dvm360.com/.../a-simple-trained-30-second...
https://www.akcchf.org/.../a-simple-solution-for-a.../
https://www.aaha.org/resources/heatstroke-in-pets/
PenVet: Voluntary Head Dunk video (Shortened version used in GwR post) - Voluntary head dunk: cooperative care for irrigating canine noses and eyes and rapid cooling
https://youtu.be/A95eFGWDxFs?si=tR3SoR714boy-kJ7
Veterinary Vertex Podcast: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7iHPIko0tU
Good Luck - and Stay Safe !!
Images may be subject to copyright.
To JOIN the Private 'Chesapeake Bay Retriever Love' group - home of these 'Growing with Raffie' (GwR) posts, contact Chesapeake Safe Harbor or Roger Booth

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Amherst, MA
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