See Spot Learn by Emily Dustan

See Spot Learn by Emily Dustan Helping anxious dogs heal and guiding families | Accredited behaviourist & certified dog trainer | Science-led, compassion-first approach.

04/06/2026

This video starts with foundation focus work. People often call this “heel,” but that word carries a lot of outdated baggage, and it isn’t what we’re doing here.

This is about footwork and body language, teaching a dog to hold attention and stay close when you ask. It’s a SKILL, not a rigid position. You don’t need it for every step of a walk! You need it for the moments that count, passing another dog on a narrow path, crossing a road, moving through a tight space.

This is NOT about formal walking with the dog locked to your side. On a normal walk I’d much rather see loose leash and freedom, with a dog who gets to sniff and move and be a dog. This skill sits alongside that, ready for when you need it.

The part I love is teaching and watching a dog and their guardian learn to communicate as a team, through how they move together and where their attention goes. Being apart of their behaviour and training journey, and seeing their progress is what makes me happy and love what I do💜

🐾 There are many dogs who love to play with other dogs. Most of the time these may be dogs that the dog sees regularly a...
01/06/2026

🐾 There are many dogs who love to play with other dogs. Most of the time these may be dogs that the dog sees regularly and knows, but some adult dogs do not enjoy interactions with every dog they see.

Socialisation isn’t about every dog playing together or always getting along. It has become a very loosely used word that technically describes a specific period of puppyhood development.

Puppies approach interactions quite differently than adult dogs because they’re at a different stage of development, and are naturally more social butterflies. However, as they grow up (like we do) and reach social maturity, somewhere between one and three years old, some dogs start to socially decline and become more dog selective or dog tolerant.

A few become dog intolerant and prefer no strange dogs at all. Not all dogs want another dog’s nose up their bum.

👨‍🦰Many people believe that all dogs should be friendly and get along. Unfortunately, stereotypes from dog park culture and social media often reinforce this idea. As a result, dog guardians may unintentionally push their dogs into interactions with others in public, often saying, ‘Don’t worry, my dog is friendly’…

This can be both frustrating and unsafe, especially when an on-lead dog is approached boisterously by an off-lead dog. These situations can lead to negative interactions, as the on-lead dog may feel trapped and unable to move freely or express their body language clearly.

💥Long before a dog avoids another dog or lashes out, they usually give quieter signals that they’re uncomfortable. Watch for lip licks, turning the head away, yawning, a stiff or low tail, or freezing on the spot. Most people miss these because they’re waiting for the dramatic stuff. If those early signs are ignored, that’s often when a dog moves on to avoiding or reacting.

How would you feel if a stranger walked up and cuddled you? I don’t know about you, but that’s not something I would enjoy. Not all dogs like to greet or be greeted, and this goes both ways. Even a friendly dog can find a greeting overwhelming.

If you have a dog who does not like interacting with dogs they don’t know (especially while on leash) - that’s ok!

Your dog is allowed to feel this way!

Be your dog’s advocate and tell the other dog guardian to not approach you with their dog. This is being proactive, and preventing your dog from being in a situation that may cause them distress.

Additionally, if you know your dog doesn’t like dogs approaching them, manage your environment by choosing quieter areas, using distance, or positioning yourself between your dog and others to help them feel more secure. Ask for space early, while there’s still a good gap between you. Creating distance at twenty metres is easy. At three metres it’s a scramble.

❗️It is important to not allow your dog to get into the habit of greeting every dog that you walk past because:

• One day you may walk past a dog who doesn’t like being greeted which could cause your dog to get lunged at.

• It puts them at risk as you may not be able to tell if that dog is a good match in temperament for your dog.

• You don’t know if the other dog may have had a negative experience in interacting with other dogs.

• It may cause long-term nervousness if your dog is constantly being snapped at by other dogs which may lead to your dog becoming reactive.

🐕Creating space will help with making your dog or the other dog feel safe, just in case the other dog lunges. If a dog starts to approach you in the street, cross the road to the other side.

www.seespotlearn.co.nz 🐾
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14/05/2026

Our fabulous Alexa has been spending time with this little one, and look at her go! 🐱

Teaching a cat to jump through a hoop isn’t just a fun trick. It’s a full-body and brain workout rolled into one.

Physically, it builds coordination, balance, body awareness, and hindquarter strength. Cats are incredibly athletic, but indoor cats often don’t get much opportunity to use their full physical range, so structured movement like this gives them that outlet.

Mentally, the training process itself is where a lot of the magic happens. When an animal learns something new through positive reinforcement, it activates the SEEKING system, the part of the brain associated with curiosity, anticipation, and engagement.

For cats this kind of structured enrichment can make a big difference to their day.💜

And yes, at See Spot Learn we work with cats too. 🐾

Dogs can show aggressive behaviour when protecting items they percieve as valuable, but please understand....Your dog is...
06/05/2026

Dogs can show aggressive behaviour when protecting items they percieve as valuable, but please understand....

Your dog is not trying to show you who's boss" that idea is outdated and scientifically incorrect. Resource guarding is a NORMAL, species-typical behaviour [1]. Animals that protected vital resources were more likely to survive, and that history is part of your dog's biological make-up.

On top of that, resource guarding can be unintentionally reinforced every time the behaviour produces an outcome the dog seeks. When a dog growls as a communication signal and the person moves away, the behaviour has been successful, so it gets repeated. That's associative learning, not a character flaw [2].

For some dogs, anxiety or insecurity around losing access to something important adds fuel to the fire, though this varies from dog to dog. Not every dog that guards is anxious (many have a well-practised behaviour that reliably works for them), but where fear or insecurity is part of the picture, it shapes how you need to approach it.

It's NOT dominance!!

If you are sitting down to your favourite meal and someone reaches across and puts their hand in your plate, or tries to take your food, you are going to object. Does that mean you are trying to dominate them? Of course not. You are protecting something you value which is a completely normal response for any species.
And if that same person offered you something you wanted more (a hundred dollars, your favourite bottle of wine) you would probably hand it over without a second thought. Dogs work in a similar way.

Resource guarding does not always look dramatic. Dogs communicate in layers, and the early signals are easy to miss. You might notice your dog eating faster the moment you approach, going very still and tense, hovering over the item, or positioning themselves between you and whatever they have. A hard stare, stiff body, flattened ears, or a tucked tail are all part of that communication too.

These signals tend to follow a pattern. Early on, you might notice nothing more than your dog going still or eating faster as you approach, easy to miss, and easy to dismiss. From there, signals become clearer… a lowered head, ears back, body stiffening, hovering over the item. It's only when those signals are repeatedly missed or ignored that a dog moves into an overt threat display (hard stare, growling, lip lift) and eventually, if nothing changes, into snapping or biting. The escalation is not sudden. It builds, and the earlier you notice it, the more options you have. See the infographic above for a visual breakdown of the four escalation stages.

This is also why children and regular visitors add an extra layer of risk. They are often less able to read those early, subtle signals, which means a dog can go from low-level guarding to a bite with very little warning from a human perspective.

Punishment makes it worse!

Using force or punishment to address resource guarding tends to make things worse and does not ‘correct’ the behaviour you think you are teaching [3].

It increases anxiety and can escalate the behaviour. There's also a more specific problem with correction and intimidation-based methods… punishment can cause a dog to learn that growling is not safe, so they stop doing it. That sounds like progress, but it's not. The underlying emotional response is still there. The warning communication has just been suppressed [3]. Next time someone approaches, there may be no growl, no warning signal, and no opportunity to move away before a bite happens.

Practical Tips…

First, managing the environment to reduce opportunities for the guarding behaviour to be practised while training is underway, because a behaviour that keeps being repeated keeps getting stronger [2].

Second, using systematic desensitisation (gradual, below-threshold exposure) paired with counter-conditioning to change how the dog feels about people approaching their resources, not just what they do [4].

Teaching a reliable, rewarded trade is a good training tool in this process, as well as dropping a treat on the floor towards the dog every time you walk past to begin building a positive association with your presence. Over time the dog learns that someone approaching does not mean threat or loss, it becomes a predictor that something good is coming.

If you have a puppy, resource guarding is much easier to prevent than to address later. Teaching a young dog early that a person approaching while they have something good always predicts something even better, and is an easy habit to build from day one.

Walk past your puppy while they have something valuable and drop a high-value treat near them without stopping or reaching for what they have. Over time, your puppy learns that people approaching means good things happen, not that something valuable is about to be taken away [1].

If resource guarding is something you are dealing with, especially if there are children in the home, I would strongly recommend working with a qualified behaviourist or force-free training professional in your area. 🐾

[1] Donaldson, J. (2002). Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs.

[2] Pryor, K. (1984). Don't Shoot the Dog.

[3] Herron, M.E., Shofer, F.S., & Reisner, I.R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviours. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 4(2), 47–54.

[4] Overall, K.L. (1997). Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals.

🤩 Training Tip for Puppy Parents 🤩Unwanted puppy behaviours, such as jumping up, mouthing, biting clothing, barking for ...
19/04/2026

🤩 Training Tip for Puppy Parents 🤩

Unwanted puppy behaviours, such as jumping up, mouthing, biting clothing, barking for interaction or connection, or chewing inappropriate items, are normal and expected in young puppies. They're still learning how to get used to their environment and our human world.

These behaviours often happen when puppies are frustrated, tired, overstimulated, or have an unmet need, especially as they move into adolescence.

Your puppy isn't being "naughty". "Naughty" is a human label for behaviour we interpret as inappropriate from our perspective.
They're repeating behaviour that has worked for them before (from their perspective) to get a response, or they haven't yet learned another way to cope or communicate.

It's also good to know that some behaviours aren't always something to "fix". Sometimes your puppy's responses are indicating that they have an unmet need, whether that's hunger, a full bladder, needing rest, or wanting social contact.

Part of training is managing your environment to set them up for success. It's also learning your puppy's body language and behaviour, remembering these are normal species responses, so you can figure out when to meet a need and when to gently guide them towards towards a different behaviour...

The more often you reward a behaviour you want, the more likely your puppy is to repeat it. That isn't luck, it's how learning happens in the brain.

Each time you reward something like settling, waiting patiently, or keeping four paws on the floor, you help strengthen the neural pathways linked to that behaviour. With consistency and repetition, those pathways become stronger, making it more likely your puppy will offer the same behaviour again in future.

This also helps your puppy learn how to succeed in daily life with you, how to respond and connect, and how to feel safe in the world around them.

🐾Be consistent.

🐾Stay neutral and avoid responding to behaviours you don't want to encourage.

🐾If you can't stay neutral, redirect to something you'd prefer. If you can't actively engage because you're cooking dinner or getting the kids ready, offer your pup a safe, long-lasting, high-value chew (golden tendon, yak chew, or pizzle stick).

🐾Respond and reward quickly when your puppy offers behaviours you like.

🐾Focus on what you do want, rather than only reacting when your puppy does something you don't like.

The behaviours you practise with your puppy now shape how they respond later...

🐾 Most dog bite incidents involving children are preventable and it starts with education.A Friend Named Dog is a childr...
16/04/2026

🐾 Most dog bite incidents involving children are preventable and it starts with education.

A Friend Named Dog is a children’s book that helps children learn how to read dog body language, interact respectfully, and recognise when a dog needs space.

What makes it special is the perspective it’s told from - the dog’s. Hearing it from the dog makes it real for kids in a way that just telling them never does.

It’s a genuinely good read for all ages (yes, grown-ups included), and the kind of book that sparks real conversations between kids and parents about how dogs communicate and what they really love to do.

📚 A great addition to any family bookshelf, and an even better gift.

Available now at See Spot Learn 👇
https://www.seespotlearn.co.nz/product/a-friend-named-dog/

19/03/2026

🐾Why Enrichment Matters More Than You Think!!

Dogs are curious, motivated animals who are built to be active in their day. Sniffing, exploring, foraging, and playing aren’t extras, they’re behaviours dogs are genuinely driven to do, and when they don’t get enough opportunity to do them, that energy has to go somewhere.

Two of the core emotional systems that shape how a dog experiences their world are the SEEKING system and the PLAY system, both identified through decades of neuroscience research by Dr Jaak Panksepp. The SEEKING system is what drives a dog to sniff, investigate, and work toward something rewarding. It’s active, engaged, and feels good, not just when they find the thing, but during the whole process of looking. The PLAY system is activated through fun, low-pressure engagement, and it plays a real role in emotional balance and social learning.

When dogs have regular outlets for both, you tend to see calmer, more settled and content behaviour . When they don’t, that’s often when the restlessness, frustration, or destructive based behaviours start to creep in.

Enrichment is about giving your dog more opportunities to use these systems in their everyday life. A lick mat is a great place to start. The act of licking is rhythmic and self-soothing, which makes it really useful for dogs who may be a bit anxious or tend to get overstimulated. It also taps directly into the SEEKING system because your dog is working for their food rather than just consuming it passively.

In this video I’m making a simple starter lick mat using K9 Naturals air-dried food blended into a fine powder and mixed with water to form a paste. Once you’re comfortable with the basics, you can use all sorts of dog-safe ingredients… unsweetened kefir yoghurt, quality tinned wet food, mashed banana, or pumpkin purée. It’s low effort, low cost, and your dog will absolutely love it.

22/02/2026

This is just a little peek at what our puppy classes look like at See Spot Learn. 🐾
Fun, supportive, and built on methods that make sense for dogs. Puppies learning at their own pace, in a way that works for them.

💜

10/02/2026

🎙️ SEASON 4 LAUNCH! TODAY @ 7:30 AM New Zealand time ☀️

We’re busting myths and breaking moulds 🐾

🎧 Watch us live on YouTube here:

youtube.com/

Or right here on the page or Instagram

In our first episode back, Jo Middleton and I are joined by new co-host Penny Wood ( Zoolittle)…
… and we’re kicking things off by tackling one BIG question:

What’s one myth about dogs you wish we could erase forever?

Here are some that’s still floated around and would love to know what you’ve come across too…

💥 “Bad behaviour just needs firmer handling.”
💥 “You need to show them who’s the boss.”
💥 “They’re just doing it for attention.”

Join us, ask questions. See you there 🐾

If you've been around dog trainers for a while, you've probably heard someone mention "the four quadrants." It sounds fa...
06/01/2026

If you've been around dog trainers for a while, you've probably heard someone mention "the four quadrants." It sounds fancy, but it's really just a framework that describes how all animals learn from the consequences of their behaviour.

Your dog does something, and something happens as a result. If the consequence is good (from your dog's perspective), they're more likely to do it again. If the consequence is unpleasant, they're less likely to repeat it. That's essentially what the four quadrants describe … the different ways behaviour changes based on what happens next.

▪️Positive Reinforcement

Your dog does something you like, so you ADD something they enjoy (a treat, a toy, praise, a sniff, access to something they want). Because something good happened, they're more likely to do that behaviour again. This is the foundation of modern, force-free training.

▪️Negative Reinforcement

Your dog does something you want, so you REMOVE or REDUCE something uncomfortable, like releasing tension on the lead when they stop pulling or stopping nagging when they finally sit. The behaviour INCREASES because it makes the discomfort go away. This quadrant is often misunderstood, but it's still based on avoidance or escape from something unpleasant.

▪️Positive Punishment

Your dog does something you don't want, so you add something unpleasant, a yell, a leash correction, a spray of water, a shock from a collar. The behaviour DECREASES because something UNPLESANT happened. This is where a lot of traditional "correction-based" training sits.

▪️Negative Punishment

Your dog does something you don't want, so you take away something they like, you turn away when they jump, end the game when they get too mouthy, or walk away when they're being pushy. The behaviour DECREASES because they lose access to what they DESIRED.

All four quadrants exist in learning theory. They've been studied extensively, and yes, they all technically "work" to change behaviour.

But, and this is important, just because something works doesn't mean that's how you should do it or that it's the right choice for your dog.

Most problem behaviours aren't about disobedience. They stem from emotion, excitement, or skills your dog hasn't learned yet. When we focus only on stopping unwanted behaviour through punishment, the dog might learn "if I do this, something bad happens" but they haven't actually learned what TO do instead or how to handle the emotion driving the behaviour.

Research into canine welfare, stress, and emotional health consistently shows that methods relying on punishment (both positive punishment and negative reinforcement) can have serious side effects. They can create fear, anxiety, and aggression. They can damage the trust between you and your dog. And they often suppress behaviour without actually teaching your dog what you do want them to do instead.

This is why we focus on positive reinforcement. It's not just about being "nice"; it's about being effective while keeping your dog's emotional wellbeing intact.

✅We build training plans around positive reinforcement because:

• It creates confident, happy dogs who are eager to learn.

• It strengthens your relationship instead of creating conflict and confusion.

• It teaches dogs what TO do, not just what to avoid.

• It's safer and more effective for addressing fear, anxiety, and aggression.

• It aligns with current research on how dogs learn best and what supports their emotional wellbeing.

Can dogs learn through punishment and corrections? Yes. But their brain learns better and retains information longer when they feel safe, which is why we focus on rewarding the behaviours we want to see and helping them become more confident.
Training doesn't have to involve fear, discomfort, or intimidation to be effective. Your dog can learn brilliant things without any of that.

🐾Here's something important to understand…

When you're working with a dog who's genuinely scared, anxious, or overwhelmed, the four quadrants become less relevant. At that point, we're not really focused on training specific behaviours, we're focused on how your dog feels.

You can't teach a dog who's terrified of other dogs to sit politely when they're in a state of panic. You can't expect a dog with separation anxiety to settle calmly when their nervous system is in full alarm mode. It's like asking someone to solve a puzzle while they're having a panic attack, their brain simply isn't in a place where learning can happen.

This is where good behaviour work starts with addressing the underlying emotion first. We help the dog feel safer, calmer, and more able to ‘think’ before we ask them to make different choices. That's why fear, anxiety, and reactivity cases need a completely different approach than basic training.

The difference is in what we use intentionally and systematically. We don't intentionally add pain, fear, or discomfort to change behaviour or get the dog to listen. We don't use tools designed to punish or intimidate. That's not about being "purely positive" or pretending punishment doesn't exist in the real world; it's about CHOOSING methods that don't risk your dog's emotional wellbeing when there are effective alternatives available.

References

1. Herron, M. E., Shofer, F. S., & Reisner, I. R. (2009).
Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviours.
Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 117(1-2), 47-54.

2. Ziv, G. (2017).
The effects of using aversive training methods in dogs, A review.
Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, 19, 50-60.

3. Hiby, E. F., Rooney, N. J., & Bradshaw, J. W. S. (2004).
Dog training methods: their use, effectiveness and interaction with behaviour and welfare.
Animal Welfare, 13(1), 63-69.

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