K9 Contact

04/09/2026

Too many dogs have been taught that "play time is me doing my thing with my toy, and you go off over there or whatever".

And then we complain about no engagement? Or your dog dragging you down the street to the park? Or them running off to force play on other dogs all the time? I won't tell you that lack of quality play is the only solution... but you'll not succeed without it.

Play is special. Its a space where you and your dog can challenge each other *without* risking physical or social risk. There is no better place to build real communication, and for your dog to really feel seen. Dogs need to play.

And there's 100% a big place for them running off to play on their own. But that's distinct from capital P Play. That's about you both, as a unit out in the world.

Don't just force a game on them, actually watch and see what they're offering. Your dog will show you, bit by bit, what sort of interactions they find playful. Build it together, explore and experiment. And quality play will emerge together.

(P.S. even a half-decent game in your back pocket, that you've practiced because play needs practice too!, and you'll have a *way easier* time getting through any behavioural issues).

02/09/2026

The biggest myth in dog behaviour is that dogs preform behaviours for rewards. People are told that if your recall didn't work then it must have been because the reward wasn't valuable enough. Or perhaps the punishment wasn't hard enough?

We routinely get demanding dogs off-leash and recalling (around other dogs) in a single session. So believe us when we say its all comes down to MEANING. Why are they recalling? Because you've got something in your pocket they might like? Of course your dog only listens when there's nothing more satisfying to do!

Stop. And recognise that this isn't you recalling your dog. I want you to see that its *you and your dog recalling together*. Stop trying to sell your dog on a transaction, and show them why you're recalling.

"Hey Fido, recall because *we've* got to go!"

And then show them. Move your body. A half-blind bat looking through a wonky telescope the next hill over should be able to clearly see from your movement that you've just recalled your dog and you've got something to do. A clear direction.

The reason a reward object is useful is because it gives your dog a clear task. "When I recall you, get to this toy as fast as possible". (etc). But its never about the toy, its about you and your dog *doing something together*.

After all what's more powerful. A £2 tennis ball? or your relationship?

31/08/2026

Dog's don't learn "a skill" like its a book they buy and put on the shelf. You can't teach a recall and then expect them to just pull it out whenever needed (we're not programming computers here).

Learning is when your dog figures out how to interact with the environment they're part of. When the environment changes, the opportunities for interaction change. Context is everything.

And the context switch between playing and working and being at liberty is massive. Think how huge the change in your behaviour is (or even a child's behaviour) between the office, the pub and the gym.

Being on-leash also doesn't transfer very well to being off-leash. You're dog's not stupid, they're very aware of exactly how being on a long line constrains their opportunities for behaviour. If you want them to recall when off-leash, you need to practice being off-leash. (Just be safe!)

27/08/2026

A solid recall can separate a great day off-leash with your dog from the last day with your dog. Don't screw around.

Make it as easy as possible for your dog. I don't care what signal you use for recalling your dog. Whistles, words or smoke signals - so long as your dog can immediately detect it even when things are going a hundred meters a second.

Once you decide on what it will be, stick to it. Don't make it a boring thing you practice 20 times a day. This is special, with maybe only a handful of practice exposures a week. Quality not quantity. And yes - you must practice is as many situations as you can. Generalise early and fast.

Most people will layer their recall's with an e-collar.

Its far easier for your dog to tune into the novel tap from the collar (or a vibration if your dog doesn't hate it), rather than relying on your dog understanding your spoken command. Where are the loudest places you dog is most at risk from a failed recall? Fast flowing water, tall windy cliffs, high speed traffic, crowded city streets... these are the noisiest places. *Touch beats talk every single time*.

Its also lets you hold your dog accountable, so they can actually understand what's expected of them.

And you're able to physically walk them through a more difficult situation from distance.

And with the bone-breaking risk of a tangled long-line gone, your practice is safer for you both.

Recall is, without doubt, the most essential formal command you dog needs to know. Help them get it right by being clear.

25/08/2026

This is an easy win. Put your dog's toys physically away.

WHAT IS A TOY? Any object that *you and your dog* use as the focus of a game. That smelly tennis ball they like to carry around which you never touch? Or the stick they find in the park? not toys. That's dog entertainment.

You could make it into a toy by making it a part of game together with your dog. The point is that its not what it is, but how you use it that makes it into a capital T Toy.

*All behaviour* is a physical interaction between your dog and the environment they are part of. Its a constant dance between their immediate self, their environment, and their need to settle some sort of growing tension in that situation.

When they directly perceive an opportunity to play they'll interact with it (assuming they feel playful, and there's nothing more demanding going on). Often this is just when they see the toy, hear the kids run down the stairs, or see you get ready for the walk to the park. If we can organise the opportunities to play into a nice neat package, then we can announce when its time to start (and stop) play. So it can be consistent, and actually fulfilling.

This also gets rid of that demanding to play behaviour so many of us have.

21/08/2026

Could you feel the rant in this one? Ivan Balabanov is correct I think, dogs hung out with humans because of play (the food was a bonus). Everything about how we related to each other makes sense in the context of play. Its such a big deal to us both, and lets face it no creature on Earth can play like a young human.

Can you image the experience of playing THE FIRST GAME OF FETCH EVER?? What was that like?

*Well I'll tell you exactly what it was like.* There was a clear goal (the stick. Bring it) and a tough but doable challenge (throw stick farther. Get it before the other dogs). How much has that changed in the past 10,000 years?

They had to figure it out right, like the details? Do we bring the stick all the way back? What if we just catch it before it stops rolling? Do we throw it into a tree and it gets stuck, is that still part of the game?

And it was in a box. It was organised. "hey Fido that's my spear, not a throwing stick. Different interactions. Different context. I'll tell you when its time to play".

Next time you're struggling to play with your dog, I want you to give up. Yup. That is I want you to give up - let your dog have a turn. Drop the thing on the ground and just start kicking it around or something. Let your dog suggest ways of interacting with it. Trust that sacred space between you and your dog - let the game emerge through repeated experimentation. Develop that clear goal. And build real challenge.

P.S. the cheat-code professionals use is to play keep-away.

23/06/2026