http://www.northnorfolkdogtraining.co.uk/

North Norfolk Dog Training, Hunstanton (2026)

23/10/2026

FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED – ONE PLACE LEFT!

Our last puppy class of 2026 starts on Saturday 12th December.

THE YOUNG ONES – 12 WEEK PUPPY COURSE

Those early months matter. This course is designed to give you and your puppy strong foundations for everyday life, while building focus, confidence and a relationship based on trust and understanding.

We’ll cover:

🐾 Reliable recall
🐾 Calm, confident lead skills
🐾 Appropriate socialisation with people and dogs
🐾 Focus and engagement
🐾 Essential everyday life skills
🐾 Preventing common puppy problems before they become established

And plenty more along the way!

Every puppy is different. Some are bold and adventurous, while others are more sensitive, cautious or independent. With over 10 years’ experience, Martina will help you understand the puppy in front of you and support you through those inevitable tricky stages.

Training is kind, positive and reward-based – because puppy training isn’t just about teaching cues. It’s about helping your puppy feel safe and understood while building the foundations for the dog they’ll grow up to be. 🧡

📍 Drove Orchards, Thornham, PE36 6LS
📧 [email protected]

23/10/2026

DID YOU KNOW? NEUTERING GUIDANCE HAS CHANGED…

Back in March 2026, the British Veterinary Association (BVA) and British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA) updated their guidance around neutering dogs.

And it’s quite an important change.

For years, many dog guardians have assumed that neutering at around six months is simply something that should be done.

The updated guidance moves away from that one-size-fits-all approach.

🐶 SO WHAT DOES THE NEW GUIDANCE SAY?

Decisions around whether, when and how to neuter should be considered individually, taking into account things such as:

• Breed and size
• Age and physical maturity
• Health risks and benefits
• Lifestyle
• The reason for considering neutering
• Behaviour
• The individual dog

Importantly, the BVA and BSAVA recommend that dogs generally should not be neutered before skeletal maturity, typically somewhere between 12 and 23 months, depending on breed and size. Larger breeds generally mature later.

♀️ FEMALE DOGS

Spaying is still generally recommended for female dogs because of considerations including pregnancy, whelping, pyometra and ovarian/uterine disease.

However, timing matters.

Depending on breed and expected maturity, the guidance recommends spaying at approximately 12–23 months, rather than automatically neutering very young.

♂️ MALE DOGS

This is perhaps where the biggest change in thinking can be seen.

The decision to castrate a male dog should be made case by case.

For some male dogs, neutering may be appropriate.

For others, there may be no need to neuter at all.

Where castration is chosen, the guidance recommends waiting until physical maturity unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise.

🧠 BUT WHAT ABOUT THE ADOLESCENT BRAIN?

This is something I think deserves much more attention.

When we talk about waiting for a dog to mature before neutering, the conversation often concentrates on skeletal maturity.

But our dogs aren’t just growing bones.

Their brains are developing too.

Adolescence is an incredibly important period of neurological, emotional and behavioural development.

The adolescent brain is still developing and reorganising, and s*x hormones are involved in that developmental process.

That doesn’t mean we can say that neutering an adolescent dog will simply “freeze” them at that age, or that every dog neutered young will develop behavioural problems.

The science isn’t that straightforward.

But equally, we shouldn’t consider reproductive hormones important to physical development while ignoring their role in the developing brain.

Research has found associations between early/prepubertal neutering and differences in some behavioural outcomes, including fear, anxiety, confidence and certain forms of aggression. However, findings between studies are mixed and there is still a great deal we don’t know.

And I think this becomes particularly important when we’re considering an already worried, fearful, anxious or behaviourally immature adolescent dog.

Castration isn’t a guaranteed solution for behavioural problems.

The BVA/BSAVA specifically note that castration does not necessarily prevent aggression, and there is evidence that it may exacerbate fear-based aggression in some dogs.

If behaviour is one of the main reasons you’re considering neutering, please don’t assume removing the reproductive organs will remove the behaviour.

Find out WHY the behaviour is happening first.

As a trainer, this is something I consider extremely important.

Physical maturity matters.
But neurological, emotional and behavioural maturity matter too.

Adolescence isn’t something we should be trying to hurry a dog through.

It’s an important developmental stage during which their brain, behaviour, confidence and ability to navigate the world are continuing to change.

So when we’re asking:

“Is my dog old enough to neuter?”

I think we should be looking at considerably more than the calendar.

We should be looking at the whole dog.

💡 AND SOMETHING ELSE I THINK IS WORTH SAYING…

I read a post from another dog trainer today which really resonated with me.

Her point was this:

Neutering a dog simply because a particular dog boarder will only accept neutered dogs is not, in itself, a good enough welfare reason to neuter a dog, and certainly not a reason to neuter one early.

And I’m inclined to agree.

This wasn’t an attack on dog boarders.

Boarders are absolutely entitled to decide which dogs they can safely and practically accommodate in their own homes. There may be very good reasons why an individual boarder chooses not to accept intact dogs.

But their business policy shouldn’t determine a permanent surgical decision for your dog.

If your dog isn’t at an appropriate age to be neutered, or you and your vet have decided that remaining intact is currently the best option for that individual dog, find a boarder who can appropriately accommodate an intact dog.

Our dogs’ welfare should come before convenience.

🐾 AND WHILE WE’RE TALKING ABOUT BOARDING…

There’s another misconception worth addressing.

Having only castrated males in a household doesn’t magically remove all s*xual, scent-related or marking behaviour.

A female approaching, experiencing or recently finishing a season can have a significant effect on the behaviour of dogs around her.

And that doesn’t only concern intact males.

Castrated males can still be extremely interested in a female’s scent. They may still mount, become excited, vocalise or mark.

Some castrated males are also still physically capable of mating and achieving a tie, they just simply cannot impregnate her.

And females mark too.

Urine marking is not exclusively a male or intact-dog behaviour. Females can and do scent-mark, something that is often overlooked.

So if a dog marks, mounts or becomes unsettled while staying in a boarding household, we shouldn’t automatically conclude:

“It’s because he’s intact.”

Look at the whole environment.

Is there a female approaching, currently experiencing or recently out of season?

Are there unfamiliar dogs?
New smells?
Social pressure?
Excitement?
Stress?
A completely different routine?

All of these things can influence behaviour and change the social dynamics within a household.

💡 THE TAKE-HOME MESSAGE?

Neutering isn’t simply:

“My dog has reached six months, so it’s time.”

And it shouldn’t be:

“My boarder requires it, so I’ll get it done.”

The conversation should be about:

THIS dog.
THIS breed.
THIS age.
THIS physical maturity.
THIS behavioural maturity.
THIS health.
THIS lifestyle.
THIS behaviour.
THIS reason for neutering.

There are absolutely circumstances where neutering is beneficial and appropriate.

But there are also circumstances where delaying it, or particularly with male dogs, choosing not to neuter, may be appropriate too.

Have the conversation with your vet. Look at your individual dog. Consider their physical and behavioural development alongside the potential risks and benefits.

A permanent surgical decision should be made because it’s the right decision for that individual dog - not simply because they’ve reached an arbitrary age, because we hope it will fix a behaviour, or because it’s more convenient for us.

Evidence changes. Guidance changes.

And responsible dog guardianship means being prepared to change our thinking when the evidence does.

21/10/2026

500g Venison mince or another minced meat (low fat)
1 medium egg - Leave out the yolk and use just the egg white if you want to keep the fat content lower.
60–80g oats, blitzed into a fine flour
2–4 tbsp water, as needed
1 tbsp milled flaxseed (optional)
2 tsp garlic powder (optional)

SO EASY! SO GOOD!

Luther & my students love these. Super high value treats

21/10/2026

🌧️💨 STORM AUSTEN – TRAINING UPDATE

Just a quick note for everyone attending training over the next few days.

I’m keeping a close eye on Storm Austen, the weather forecast and any official warnings affecting West and North Norfolk.

At the moment, there’s no need to assume your training session or class won’t be going ahead. However, conditions can change, and your safety, and your dog’s, will always come first.

Before setting off for training, please check your emails and/or text messages from me for any last-minute updates.

If I feel that travelling conditions or the weather at the Training Centre make it unwise to go ahead, I’ll contact everyone affected as soon as possible.

Please don’t worry if you don’t hear from me - no news means training is going ahead as planned. 🐾

Hopefully Storm Austen will behave itself and leave our little corner of Norfolk largely alone! 🤞

20/10/2026

When your mother-in-law gives you some money for your birthday and says, “get yourself something nice”.

Naturally I bought Luther a rain coat 😍

Was I right or wrong?

https://shop.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/product/waterproof-raincoat-in-4-colours/

18/10/2026

⚠️ COULD YOUR DOG SWALLOW THAT?

Take a look at your dog’s favourite ball.

Now their KONG.

Their chew toys.

Are they actually big enough, and are they still in a condition that’s safe to use?

When choosing balls and toys, think about your dog’s mouth and jaws, and when in doubt, go BIGGER.

🎾 BALLS

A useful safety rule is:

Your dog’s ball should be too large for them to fit the whole thing inside their mouth.

They should be able to pick it up and carry it comfortably, but they shouldn’t be able to engulf it or manoeuvre the entire ball towards the back of their mouth.

If they can - SIZE UP.

A ball doesn’t have to look tiny to present a risk.

A dog running, panting, jumping and catching a ball can reposition it surprisingly quickly. If a ball travels backwards far enough, it can potentially obstruct the airway.

And choking isn’t the only danger.

An object can become lodged in the oesophagus, or it may reach the stomach and subsequently become stuck in the gastrointestinal tract.

A gastrointestinal foreign-body obstruction can become a genuine veterinary emergency.

🧸 KONGS AND OTHER TOYS

The same principle applies.

KONG’s own safety advice says the widest part of the KONG should be larger than the back of your dog’s mouth.

And if you’re between sizes?

SIZE UP.

I’d much rather see a dog with a toy that’s unnecessarily large than one that’s slightly too small.

🐕 MULTI-DOG HOUSEHOLDS

This is particularly important.

A toy that’s appropriately sized for your smaller dog may be dangerously small for your larger dog.

If everyone has access to the same toys, choose sizes with the biggest dog’s mouth in mind.

🔎 CHECK THE CONDITION - NOT JUST THE SIZE

This is something I see surprisingly often: very old toys being kept or passed on because they still look usable.

Rubber toys don’t last forever.

An old KONG or rubber toy may have been around for years and still look reasonably intact, but the rubber itself can begin to age and perish.

Look for:

• cracking or fine surface cracks
• splitting
• rubber becoming unusually soft or sticky/tacky
• areas becoming brittle or easier to tear
• pieces beginning to flake or break away
• significant thinning or deformation
• chunks already missing
• changes in the feel of the rubber compared with when it was newer.

If the material is beginning to perish, retire the toy.

Don’t wait until a large piece actually comes off.

And be particularly careful about second-hand or recycled dog toys. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with reusing something that’s genuinely safe, but don’t assume an old rubber toy is safe simply because it’s still in one piece.

Age, storage and previous use all matter.

Sometimes the safest place for an old favourite really is the bin.

🦠 AND WHAT ABOUT HYGIENE?

Condition isn’t only about whether something might break.

Think about what happens to a dog’s toys and chews over time.

They’re covered in saliva. They’re dropped on floors. They’re carried outside. They pick up food debris, dirt and organic material, and then they’re put back in the toy box to be chewed again tomorrow.

Damaged surfaces, cracks, crevices and hollow areas can become increasingly difficult to clean thoroughly.

Pay particular attention to toys and chews that are:

• cracked, split or heavily chewed
• porous or difficult to clean
• permanently damp or sticky
• holding old food or treat residue
• developing an unpleasant smell
• impossible to clean properly inside.

And let’s talk about those old hollow shin/marrow bones.

They’re often given as a chew and then remain in the dog’s toy collection for months - sometimes much much longer!

Once repeatedly chewed, scratched and exposed to saliva, food debris, floors, soil and everything else a dog encounters, their damaged surfaces and hollow centres can be difficult to clean and dry thoroughly.

If a toy or chew can’t be properly cleaned and completely dried, or has become so damaged that you can’t confidently keep it hygienic, I’d retire it.

Before giving your dog a toy or chew, ask yourself:

SIZE: Can my dog get the entire thing into their mouth?

SHAPE: Could it slide backwards or become wedged?

CONDITION: Is it cracked, splitting, thinning, damaged or beginning to perish?

HYGIENE: Can I actually clean and dry this properly?

DOG: Does my dog simply carry toys, or do they chew, shred, gulp or attempt to swallow them?

Remember that the appropriate toy can also change during your dog’s lifetime.

Puppies grow.

Dogs become stronger chewers.

Toys wear down.

And something that was safe when you bought it isn’t necessarily safe several years later.

🚨 IF YOUR DOG SWALLOWS SOMETHING

Don’t automatically assume:

“It’ll come out the other end.”

Some foreign bodies do pass. Others don’t.

They can become lodged in the oesophagus, stomach or intestine and may require endoscopy or surgery to remove.

Signs of a possible foreign body can include:

• gagging or repeated swallowing
• excessive drooling
• regurgitation
• vomiting
• refusing food
• abdominal discomfort
• lethargy
• difficulty passing faeces
• collapse or shock in severe cases.

If you know or strongly suspect your dog has swallowed a toy or other foreign object, contact your vet promptly rather than waiting for symptoms to appear.

If your dog is struggling to breathe, it is an immediate emergency.

🐾 THE TAKE-HOME MESSAGE

Don’t choose toys according to what your dog CAN fit in their mouth.

Choose them according to what they CAN’T swallow.

And don’t judge a toy purely by whether it’s still in one piece.

RIGHT SIZE.
RIGHT CONDITION.
RIGHT TOY.
CLEAN & SAFE.

When in doubt about size - SIZE UP.

When in doubt about condition or hygiene - THROW IT OUT.

Go and have a look through your dog’s toys and chews.

Comment below if you’ve had a look after reading this and decided to throw something out. 👇

12/10/2026

LETS STOP CHOOSING DOGS JUST BECAUSE WE LIKE HOW THEY LOOK.

For centuries, humans selectively bred dogs to perform particular jobs.

We deliberately selected dogs that were especially good at herding, hunting, retrieving, guarding, tracking, chasing, flushing, killing vermin, working independently or working closely alongside people, and bred from them generation after generation.

✅ We wanted those behaviours.

✅ We encouraged them.

✅ We relied upon them.

And those genetics haven’t simply disappeared because most of our dogs now live in our homes as companions.

Today, we often describe many of these behaviours as breed traits, innate or breed-typical behaviours. Behaviours a dog may be genetically predisposed to perform, sometimes with remarkably little teaching.

Of course, breed doesn’t determine everything. Every dog is an individual and behaviour is influenced by genetics, early development, learning, health and environment.

But breed absolutely matters.

So before buying a puppy or adopting or rehoming an adult dog, please do your homework.

And if you’re considering one of the increasingly popular crosses or “designer” dogs, research ALL breeds involved. A crossbreed doesn’t conveniently inherit only the characteristics you happen to like❗️

Think about what the dogs were originally bred to do:

🐶 Working Cocker Spaniel
Bred to hunt and flush game. Often energetic, persistent, highly scent-driven, busy and extremely motivated to search and investigate. That gorgeous little spaniel may have an enormous need to do things.

🐶 Cavapoo (Cavalier King Charles Spaniel × Poodle)
You’re combining a companion spaniel with an intelligent, athletic water retriever. Consider sociability, sensitivity, attachment to people, trainability, retrieving, activity levels and the mental stimulation that may come with the Poodle side.

🐶 Bernese Mountain Dog
A Swiss working farm dog historically used for jobs including drafting/cart pulling, driving livestock and general farm work. Large, powerful dogs bred to work alongside people, not simply enormous fluffy teddy bears.

🐶 Labradoodle (Labrador Retriever × Poodle)
Two breeds with working origins. Retrieving, carrying things, water, intelligence, energy, sociability and a desire for activity can all come as part of the package.

🐶 Poodle
Please don’t let the haircut fool you! Poodles originated as water retrievers. They are typically intelligent, athletic, trainable dogs that can require considerably more mental and physical stimulation than people expect.

🐶 Border Terrier
A proper little working terrier. Bred to accompany hunts and deal with foxes and vermin. Tenacity, independence, digging, chasing and predatory behaviour shouldn’t come as a surprise.

🐶 Cockerpoo (Cocker Spaniel × Poodle)
Potentially combining the hunting/flushing characteristics of a spaniel with the intelligence, athleticism and retrieving heritage of a Poodle. They aren’t automatically quiet, easy little teddy-bear dogs simply because they’re fluffy.

🐶 Dachshund
That long body and those little legs had a purpose. Dachshunds were bred to hunt, including going underground after badgers. Independent thinking, determination, digging, scenting, chasing and a surprisingly big personality can come in a very small package.

🐶 Chihuahua
A tiny companion breed, but tiny does not mean behaviourally insignificant. They can be alert, vocal, quick to notice environmental changes and strongly attached to their people. They still need appropriate socialisation, training, choice and respect, not to be carried everywhere because they’re small.

🐶 Lurcher
Not one specific breed, often multiple breeds, but traditionally a sighthound crossed with another breed or type. Depending on the mix, you may see speed, visual sensitivity to movement, chasing and predatory behaviour alongside characteristics inherited from the other ancestry. Find out what that ancestry is whenever possible.

🐶 Border Collie
Bred to control livestock using movement, positioning and intense visual focus. That sensitivity to movement can sometimes be redirected towards cars, bicycles, runners, children or other animals when their needs aren’t appropriately met. These are exceptionally capable dogs whose brains need consideration as much as their legs.

🐶 Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Powerful, tenacious terriers with historical roots that included bull-baiting and later dog fighting, alongside generations of development as companion dogs. Modern Staffies are individuals, but strength, persistence, enthusiasm, physical play and terrier characteristics are worth understanding before bringing one home.

And this matters.

Dogs are relinquished to rescue organisations every day because somebody decides they don’t like their dog’s behaviour.

But sometimes what they’re struggling with is a perfectly understandable behaviour for the type of dog they chose.

“He chases everything.”
What was he bred to do?

“She never stops sniffing.”
What was she bred to do?

“He wants to retrieve everything.”
What was he bred to do?

“She’s constantly watching movement.”
What was she bred to do?

“He digs.”
What was he bred to do?

“She needs far more exercise and stimulation than I expected.”
What was she bred to do?

Before choosing a dog, take an honest look at your life, your circumstances and your physical capabilities, not the life you imagine you’ll have once you get one.

Are you active?

Do you enjoy training?

How long will the dog regularly be left alone?

Do you have young children?

Other animals?

Do you live in a flat or a house?

Do you have access to a secure garden?

How much time can you genuinely devote to exercise, enrichment and training?

Will you still walk the dog when it’s dark, cold and absolutely chucking it down?

And something we perhaps don’t talk about enough:

Consider your age and your physicality.

Can you physically manage the size, strength and energy of the adult dog you’re choosing, not just the adorable 8 week old puppy sitting in front of you?

A puppy may weigh 5kg today and 40, 50, 60kg or more as an adult.

Could you safely manage that dog if they suddenly lunged?

Could you help them into a car if they were injured?

Could you cope with an adolescent dog who is powerful, excitable and still learning?

Do you have the mobility and stamina to provide what that particular dog is likely to need?

And think ahead, too.

A dog could be part of your life for the next 10–15 years or more. None of us can predict our health or circumstances, but it is sensible to consider whether the dog’s likely needs, size and strength are realistic for you now and as you both get older.

That isn’t about saying older people shouldn’t own large or active dogs, or that somebody with physical limitations can’t be a fantastic dog owner.

It’s about choosing thoughtfully and realistically.

But there’s another question that’s arguably even more important than whether you can cope with the dog:

What kind of life can you honestly offer THEM?

Not “Can I own this dog?”

Can I give this particular dog a genuinely good quality of life?

Can you provide appropriate opportunities for them to move, sniff, explore, play, learn, rest, investigate and express the behaviours that matter to them?

If you choose a dog with a strong desire to search and hunt, can you give them appropriate outlets for that?

If you choose an intelligent working breed, are you prepared to engage their brain as well as exercise their body?

If you choose a dog bred to work closely alongside people but they’ll routinely spend long periods alone, is that really the right choice?

If you choose a large, active dog but dislike walking, particularly when the weather is miserable, what will that dog’s life actually look like?

Quality of life matters enormously.

I couldn’t begin to put a number on the dogs I meet professionally who simply aren’t compatible with the lives of the people who own them.

And sometimes that presents as a “training problem”.

But training cannot change everything.

You cannot train genetics out of a dog.

Training can teach skills.
Training can improve communication.
Training can help dogs cope better with their environment.
Training can provide appropriate alternative behaviours and outlets.

But all the training in the world cannot make an fundamentally unsuitable lifestyle meet a dog’s needs.

Sometimes the problem isn’t that the dog needs more training. It’s that the dog and the lifestyle were never a particularly good match in the first place.

And that’s incredibly sad for everyone involved, but especially for the dog, because they didn’t choose the home.

Are you looking for a hobby and training partner, or would you actually prefer a dog whose needs are generally less demanding?

There is absolutely nothing wrong with wanting an easier companion dog. But then choose an easier companion dog.

Don’t choose a dog bred for generations to work and then spend years trying to suppress the very behaviours humans deliberately bred into them because those behaviours don’t conveniently fit your lifestyle.

And the same thought needs to go into rescue.

Giving a dog a home is wonderful, but it needs to be the right home.

Repeatedly placing a dog into homes that aren’t suited to their needs, only for them to be returned and moved again, isn’t fair on that dog.

Breed, breed mix, known history, observed behaviour, individual needs and the realities of the prospective home all need proper consideration.

So before choosing your next dog:

Forget the colour.�Forget the fashionable crossbreed name.�Forget the Instagram photographs.�Forget how cute the puppy is.

Ask instead:

What was this dog bred to do?

What might those genetics look like in an ordinary family home?

Can I physically manage this dog when they’re fully grown?

Can I meet their physical, emotional and behavioural needs?

What kind of quality of life can I honestly offer this particular dog?

Can I provide that for the next 10–15 years?

And perhaps the most important question of all:

Does this dog genuinely fit the life I actually have?

Because choosing a dog because it looks like a cute little teddy bear doesn’t mean you’re bringing home Paddington. 🧸

You might actually be bringing home a highly motivated working dog wearing a teddy-bear costume.

Research the dog beneath the fluff. 🐾

10/10/2026

Choosing a puppy?

I just want to highlight something about the breeder-owner relationships…

There are some conversations I’d expect a good breeder to have with you BEFORE any money changes hands.

When we talk about choosing a responsible breeder, we often concentrate on health testing, temperament, how the puppies have been raised and meeting the mother.

But pay attention to the other conversations too.

Sometimes what a breeder says, and what they don’t say, can tell you an enormous amount.

Before you hand over a deposit, before either of you has decided that one of their puppies will be coming home with you, I’d expect some conversation about what happens afterwards.

One of those conversations should be:

“I’d like you to keep in touch and let me know how my puppy is getting on.”

It sounds like a small thing, but I don’t think it is.

A good breeder has raised that puppy from the moment they were born and carefully chosen the home they are going to. I’d expect them to genuinely care about what happens next.

Have they settled?
How are they getting on?
Are you enjoying them?
Are there any problems?
Do you need any help?

That doesn’t mean your breeder should be checking up on you every fortnight for the next 12 + years!

Some owners will send photographs and updates regularly. Others might only get in touch occasionally. Over time, that relationship will naturally change.

But the expectation that you’ll stay in contact should have been discussed from the beginning.

And there’s another conversation I think is even more important:

“If things aren’t going well, please tell me.”

Sometimes, despite everyone’s best intentions, things don’t work out.

Circumstances change. A puppy may not be the right fit for a particular home. Health or behavioural difficulties can arise. Family situations can change completely.

You should know, before you buy that puppy, what your breeder expects you to do if you ever find yourself unable to keep them.

I would expect this to be clearly addressed in the breeder’s contract too.

If you can no longer keep the puppy or dog, they should be returned to the breeder - not privately sold, passed on to somebody else, advertised for rehoming or relinquished to a rescue organisation without the breeder’s involvement.

And that shouldn’t be something you discover for the first time when you’re standing there excitedly collecting your puppy with a contract put in front of you to sign.

This conversation should happen beforehand.

Ask to see the contract before committing.

Read it. Ask questions.

Understand what the breeder expects from you, but also understand what you can expect from them.

Because you’re not simply choosing a puppy.

You’re choosing the breeder who should still be there after you’ve taken that puppy home.

So if you’re considering a puppy and there has been no conversation about keeping in touch, no discussion about what happens if you’re struggling, and no explanation of what should happen if you can no longer keep the dog?

🚩 For me, that’s a red flag. And personally, I’d walk away.

A good breeder shouldn’t disappear once they have your money and the puppy leaves.

Their door should remain open always - especially when things aren’t going to plan.

05/10/2026

Gosh, I really do have such a soft spot for a Scottie! 🥹🧡

Isn’t baby Flora just utterly scrumptious?! Those ears. That little beard. That face! 😍

Flora will be joining us for Puppy Classes starting this week, and I already know I’m going to absolutely love watching this gorgeous little lady grow, learn and find her feet in the world.

Welcome to the North Norfolk Dog Training family, Flora. 🐾🧡

North Norfolk Dog Training

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