https://www.facebook.com/830821076791822/

Cani-resource, Winnipeg, MB (2026)

03/28/2026

There are many ways to train directional (left/haw and right/gee) cues; here is probably the most common method. If you know of any more, please share in the comments! When starting directional cues, it’s best to do so when cani-hiking or canicrossing – you’ll have more control to ensure your dog takes the correct direction then if you are on a rig.

On the Trail – this is an easy, on the go method. However, one of its the pitfalls is if you always use the same trails, your dog may learn the trail more than the cues. In that case, when you try a new trail, your dog may be confused by your cues. Make sure to vary up your trails when training directional cues!
1. When you get to a clear intersection, before turning, say the appropriate cue, then take the correct direction and continue on your walk/run.
2. Eventually, you should start noticing that your dog moving towards the direction when you say your cue. When this happens, we are going to start raising the criteria for our dog. When you come to an intersection, say your cue, then wait for your dog to move towards the correct direction. Once they move towards the right direction continue moving forward. Avoid repeating your cue – give your dog a chance to think, and at first, reward any positive movement in the right direction with forward movement. If your dog is consistently struggling, you may be asking too much too soon so go back to Step 1 for a bit.
3. Your goal should be : say cue, dog goes in that direction. Once your dog is consistently showing that they understand what your directional cue means (e.g. haw/left = they are moving to the left in an intersection), then you can start increasing the difficulty of the turns, and working on trickier, less clear turns. As with all training, you want to set up your dog for success:
a. Initially, only use the cue for obvious turns, and when you can ensure follow-through. If you yell you Haw and your dog ends up going Gee and you let them, they learn that Haw and Gee mean nothing. Make sure that if you say Haw, your dog goes Haw not Gee (or vice versa)!
b. Give them time to react: I usually like to give at least 2-4 meters for my dog to react.
c. Follow the 4 Ds (Distraction, Duration, Difficulty, and Distance) of dog training and only increase one at a time!

Tips and Tricks:
If you are getting confused, write a G on your right hand and an H on your left (if practicing without gloves) so you can easily check before yelling out the cue. You can also purchase gloves with Gee and Haw written on them, or I have seen people put Gee and Haw on the handles of their kicksled/bike/scooter for quick reference. The more you train with your dog, the easier it will get for you too!

01/02/2026

When it comes to harness (or dog powered) sports, there are common cue words: Line out, Hike, Gee, Haw, Onby, Easy etc... but why? Should you use these words or can use other words?

Reality is, like in all dog training, that you can use whatever word works best for you. Don't like Gee and Haw? Use Left and Right! Or even Banana and Apple! As long as you and your dog(s) know what it means, it works - many people very successfully use alternative cues! That being said, there are a few practical reasons to consider using the standard cues:

1. Clear distinction: All of the standard cues are pretty distinctive from each other. If you wish to use alternative cues, make sure that your cues don't sound like each other (e.g. slow and whoa can sound similar and be confusing).

2. Teaming up: I don't know about you, but when out practicing with friends, we have often combined our dogs to run in different teams. It can get quite confusing if you have a dog that knows different cues than the other dogs. This also applies if you purchase a dog from a professional sled dog kennel to add to your existing team - they will probably already know the standards cues so you either will have to retrain them to the new cues so to not confuse them.

3. Group confusion: If you run with others, it makes it easier to discuss on the fly what you want to do without confusing your dogs. Example: "Should we turn stop?" - if stop is a cue, your dog may put on the breaks when you didn’t plan for it!

4. Trail interactions: Passing someone on a trail can get be a bit tricky if you use Left and Right. If you yell out Left, are you telling the other trail user to go left? Or your dog? Using Haw makes it clear to your dog what direction to go, and then you can also tell the other trail user "stay right please" without causing a collision. (Tip: try to not tell the other user which side you are coming on because people tend to just hear the direction and while move to that side. If you say "coming up Left", there's a big chance the other person will think you want them to go to the left and will go to the left instead of just staying on the right.)

What cues words do you use? Have you had any issues? Let me know in the comments!

12/31/2025

While kicksledding yesterday, I noticed my gangline and bridle needing to be replaced which got me thinking about kicksled bridles.

𝗪𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗶𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗱𝗹𝗲? A bridle is a rope, usually with two segments that allow you to attach a gangline (the line that attaches to your dog) to your sled. From what I know, most sleds will require a bridle but today we'll be specifically talking about the Esla Kicksled. For the Esla Kicksled, the bridle is typically attached to the stanchions (the two wooden posts that support the handle bars). Novice kicksledders may be tempted to attach the bridle (or even skip the bridle) and directly attach the gangline to the brushbow (the front) part of the sled) - do NOT do this! The brushbow plays an important role: it is there to help protect the sled if you crash and is intended to break under high impact. It is not strong nor intended to be used as a pulling attachment for the kicksled! On the other hand, the stanchions are one of the strongest areas of the kicksled, and is generally where the bridle is attached.

𝗪𝗵𝗲𝗻 𝗶𝘁 𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝘄𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗮𝘁𝘁𝗮𝗰𝗵 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗱𝗹𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗵𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀, 𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝘄𝗼 𝗴𝗲𝗻𝗲𝗿𝗮𝗹 𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗵𝗼𝗱𝘀. Both have pros and cons, and both have been used successfully by many!

𝟭. 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗱𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝗮𝗹 (𝗟𝗼𝘄 𝗔𝘁𝘁𝗮𝗰𝗵𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁): traditionally (and arguably more commonly), the bridle is attached at the bottom of the stanchions, right above the runners, then the bridle is ran along the runners towards the front, and threaded through two additional metal loops at the front near the brushbow (note that these loops just keep the bridle in place, the pulling force is still being applied to the stanchions).

𝗣𝗿𝗼𝘀:
- Lowers the centre of gravity of the sled (when pulling), so the kicksled will be more stable
- Since the bridle runs along the front of the sled, the sled will perform better in turns

𝗖𝗼𝗻𝘀:
- If your dog(s) stop pulling, the gangline will tend to quickly slip under the runners
- The lower attachment point means that pressure will be applied to most dog's hips if running in a typical pulling harness (unless you run with a small dog). If you plan to frequently use a kicksled, I would encourage you to look into a harness that is designed to be used with lower attachment points such as the Akko Single-File Harness (CDN), Tanzilla Freight Harness (CAD), Non-Stop Dog Wear Stick Harness (NOR), Howling Dog Alaska Wheel Dog Harness (US), etc.

𝟮. 𝗛𝗶𝗴𝗵 𝗔𝘁𝘁𝗮𝗰𝗵𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁: less common, the bridle is attached at stanchions right above the seat.

𝗣𝗿𝗼𝘀:
- Higher attachment point means that there will not be downward pressure on dog's hips, so a regular pulling harness can be used.

𝗖𝗼𝗻𝘀:
- Bridle may get caught on the seat slats (can be prevent by covering the seat with fabric or seat sides with foam).
- Higher centre of gravity of the sled (when pulling), so the kicksled will tend to be less stable (tippier)
- Sled will not turn quite as well since the pulling force is concentrated on the middle of the sled

At the end of the day, if it is safe, do the method that works for you! If you use another method, or a variation of the two methods noted above, let me know how and why in the comments!

𝗛𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘀𝗼𝗺𝗲 𝘂𝘀𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹 𝗹𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗵𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗼 𝗶𝗻𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗹𝗹 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗯𝗿𝗶𝗱𝗹𝗲 𝗼𝗻 𝗮𝗻 𝗘𝘀𝗹𝗮 𝗞𝗶𝗰𝗸𝘀𝗹𝗲𝗱:
Traditional (Low) Attachment: www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRTfNJCmVoE
High Attachment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqXqNMh0FB4

𝗣𝗵𝗼𝘁𝗼 𝗰𝗿𝗲𝗱𝗶𝘁𝘀:
Image 1 : https://www.canvasbackpets.com/products/sled-bridle?_pos=4&_sid=963cdc376&_ss=r
Image 2 : https://skijordogs.blogspot.com/2013/09/kicksled.html
Image 3 : https://flyexplores.blogspot.com/2020/11/kicksled-setup-and-beginnings.html
Image 4 : Dog Powered Fun

12/21/2025

The first cue you’ll probably use when it comes to dog powered sports is likely “Line Out”, and the second is “Hike” (note: you can use whatever word you want, these are just the most commonly used). Line Out is a cue that tells your dog to go stand in front of you (or your rig) and to hold the line pressure steady while standing. For multi-dog teams, Line Out is essential for keeping the lines from getting tangled before starting a run. It’s still a great idea to have a solid line out with a single dog because because it gives your dog a heads up that we will be starting soon, and you can also tell if your dog is ready to go or not by how they react.

Hike is the “go forward” cue so it is often taught simultaneously with “Line Out”.

From my research, there are 𝟯 𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗵𝗼𝗱𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝗻𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗲 𝗢𝘂𝘁 (if you know of any more, please leave a comment!). Please ensure your dog is wearing a well-fitted, pulling harness when training Line Out.

𝟭. 𝗢𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝗹: this works best with high-drive dogs who just can’t wait to run. If your dog is unsure about pulling, this method likely won’t work great for you

a. When you are pretty sure that your dog will pressure/pull on the line, say “Line Out” and then wait for your dog to naturally put tension on the line. Once they do, say your go cue (usually “Hike”) and allow your dog to move forward. Repeat whenever you start your runs.

b. Once you start seeing your dog consistently starting to put tension on the line immediately after you say “Line Out”, start increasing the duration of the Line Out. Initially you would immediately give the release cue once they put tension on the line; now, you will wait a few seconds before give the release “Hike”. Repeat, and gradually increase from 1-2 seconds, to 5 seconds, to 10 and so forth until you reach your desired time.

𝟮. 𝗧𝗲𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲𝗱: Very popular method; not my preferred method because your dog initially learns the reward comes from you and to approach you instead of moving with you following behind. Note: instead of tethering your dog to an object, you can be holding the line and have a human helper getting your dog to pull and rewarding them.

a. With your dog safely tethered to an object that won’t move or fall, call them forward or lure them. When they put tension on the line say a reward marker (“yes”) and give them a treat. Repeat.

b. Once your dog is comfortable pulling forward for a treat, move from being in front, to being sideways and either tossing a treat forward for them to pull towards or lure with your hand while your body is beside them instead of in front.

c. Holding your dog’s line, toss a treat in front, then let your dog pull forward. Pause for a second with tension then and let them approach the treat. Repeat.

d. Once your dog is comfortable pulling in front of you, start saying “Line Out” before tossing the treat.

e. When your dog start to pull a bit forward when you say “Line Out” (before you toss the treat), start to gradually say “Line Out” then wait for your dog to pull and once they are pulling forward toss the treat.

f. Now start saying “Line Out”, pause for your dog to pull forward and wait a few seconds, then say “Hike” and toss a treat forward and run with your dog. Gradually phase out throwing a treat and replace it by just running forward.

e. Gradually increase the pause after saying “Line Out” from 1-2s to 5s, then 10 and so forth so your dog learns to wait with tension on the line before being told to “Hike”.

This video demonstrates a version of tethered training: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdHgMvsNn6g

𝟯. 𝗧𝗮𝗿𝗴𝗲𝘁𝘀: my preferred method, as it teaches your dog to pull in front of you and that the reward does not come from handler. A bit more labourious for the handler, requires 2-3 targets (use large flat surface like plates, frisbees, etc) that will need to be phased out.

a. First introduce the targets to your dog: place a treat on the surface, then lower it down to the ground and let your dog get the treat so they learn that target = treats.

b. Place the 2 targets in a line, with a few metres in between. With your dogs in harness on and a line, approach the first target but stay a few feet away where they can’t get the treat. When your dog approaches the target to get the treat, they should put tension on the line. Once there is tension on the line, say “Hike”, then let them approach the first target, then the second target (we want our dogs to keep going forward after the first target, lest they learn to only go to the first target and stop).

c. When your dog readily puts tension on the line when they see the target, approach the target, say “Line Out”, then wait for your dog to tension on the line before saying hike and letting them go to the first target then the second target.

d. Repeat step c but now after saying line out, wait a 1-2 seconds before saying hike. Repeat, then
slowing increase the time to 5s, then 10, and so forth until desired time.

e. Once your dog clearly understand their line out cue, start phasing out the target by not always having a treat on it, and spacing the target further away from each other, then not having the targets. You should at the same time be switching from using the treats to instead continuing to move forward as the reward.

These videos show Line Out being trained using targets:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4Gq-LWM0Ko
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5Rbws8guFA

𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝘁𝗶𝗽𝘀
Regardless of which method you use, make sure to only give your “Hike” cue when your dog is doing a correct “Line Out” i.e. the dog is putting tension on line in front of you/rig and looking forward. If you don’t, you will slowly teach your dog to do a poor line out. For example, if you repeatedly tell your dog to “Hike” when they are looking back towards you then your dog learns that line out means they have to look back at you. Also make sure to gradually train your line out cue in a variety of environments and around different distractions!

12/17/2025

You’ve just discovered canicross, skijoring, bikejoring or kicksledding….but you're a bit lost on how to start? Many try to hook up their dogs, and then end up feeling frustrated and disheartened. Here are my 5 tips for starting pulling/harness dog sports (psst if you have tips for newcomers, make sure to leave them in the comments!)

1. Determine what are your goals. I know this sounds obvious, but it can make a big difference on your success. If you're planning on competing or adding in skis or wheels, you probably will want to spend more time on foundational skills than someone who just wants to go out for a run here and there with their dog.

2. Get the right equipment – I know it can be daunting to spend money on something you aren’t sure will work out, but investing in the right equipment is critical. Make sure to get a properly fitting pulling harness for your dog!

3. Start working on foundational skills such as line out, pull, directions, stop, onby, etc. Many people try to just hook up their dog, but without training clear cues, it can easily become a disaster for both dog and handler. Don’t worry, we’ll cover how to train these foundational skills in later posts.

4. Start small. It is critical to start with itsy bitsy distances, and to make sure that your dog is having fun. If you overpush your dog, they can quickly stop wanting to pull. Start small, and slowly build up from there!

5. Friends and clubs can be fun and helpful, but also be a crutch. Many start using a “rabbit” (i.e. having their dog chase another person or team) which can motivate the dog….but leave you stuck when going solo. Make sure to do solo runs, not just runs with friends; and if using a “rabbit”, to quickly phase them out!

Have questions about starting harness dog sports? Leave a comment and I’ll try my best to answer!

12/14/2025

At the end of today's run, I noticed my dog starting to show the tale-tell sign of having issues with their paws – stopping and holding them up or stopping to bite at the snow lumps. Time for bo**ies I guess – or maybe not?

Contrary to what many believe, bo**ies are not used for warmth. Rather, they are used to protect paws from snow and other debris. While they can be great, bo**ies can cause additional slipping, be a bit awkward for dogs, and as dogs use their paws to regulate their temperature, it can impede their thermoregulation under certain circumstances.

Some dogs may never need them, however, others may need them occasionally, or some all the time. If snowballs are an issue, snow temperature and age will also be a factor.

𝗜𝗳 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗱𝗼𝗴 𝗴𝗲𝘁𝘀 𝘀𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗯𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘀, 𝗜 𝘄𝗼𝘂𝗹𝗱 𝗿𝗲𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗺𝗲𝗻𝗱 𝗳𝗶𝗿𝘀𝘁 𝘁𝗿𝘆𝗶𝗻𝗴:
1. Trim those hairy feet! Extra hair between the toes can cause more snow to build up and cause ice snow balls to form.
2. Try using Musher’s Secret (available at many pet-stores) or similar paw balms. This is a wax-based balm that needs to be applied right before going for a run, and it helps to moisturize and prevent snow build up on paws.

𝗜𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗼𝘀𝗲 𝘁𝘄𝗼 𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴𝘀 𝗱𝗶𝗱𝗻’𝘁 𝘀𝗼𝗹𝘃𝗲 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗶𝘀𝘀𝘂𝗲, 𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗻 𝗹𝗼𝗼𝗸 𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗼 𝘀𝗹𝗲𝗱 𝗱𝗼𝗴 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀! Sled dog bo**ies are a lot more simplistic than those found in most pet stores, and arguably work much better. These are not meant to last long; depending on the type of terrain and your mileage, you may have to change these out after a few runs. Good thing they are generally inexpensive!

𝗧𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘂𝘀𝘂𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘆 𝗮 𝗳𝗲𝘄 𝗱𝗶𝗳𝗳𝗲𝗿𝗲𝗻𝘁 𝘁𝘆𝗽𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀:
- 𝗦𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗮𝗿𝗱: usually made from Cordura 300-330D or similar nylon fabric, these are good for snow or lightly-abrasive terrain. Generally a good all-around bo**ie for most mushers.

- 𝗧𝗼𝘂𝗴𝗵 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀: made from either 500 or 1000D Cordura, may or may not have additional rubber texture at the the bottom. Made for dogs that run on abrasive terrain (gravel, etc). The higher the number, the stronger but also more slippery the fabric when it comes to Cordura so these would not be my personal choice if you are usually running on snow.

- 𝗙𝗹𝗲𝗲𝗰𝗲 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀: made for dogs running on snow or icier conditions as they provide better traction than other fabric. May wear out faster than other fabrics.

- 𝗛𝗶𝗴𝗵 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀: bo**ies that are longer, made for dogs that may have issues with normal bo**ies due to dewclaws being near where the normal bo**ies are tightened, or needing extra protection along the leg.

Each manufacturer has a different sizing guide so I won’t comment on sizing other than it’s normal that front and back paws are different sizes. Some mushers only put bo**ies on the hind paws to help increase traction in the front.

𝗛𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗼 𝗽𝘂𝘁 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗻:
Most bo**ies are now made with a elastic hook and loop closure. To properly put the bo**ies on, make sure that the bottom of the bo**ie is smooth (there will often be a fold when you tighten the bo**ie on, so make sure that fold in on the top of the foot). Put the bo**ie on, then put a finger in-between the closure, so that after you velcro them on, there is a finger’s spacing between – this makes sure the bo**ie isn’t on too tight! Booties may fall off during a run so picking a brightly coloured option is a good idea. If they are falling off frequently, then you may need to tighten them a bit more.

When you are first putting on bo**ies, your dog may be a bit uneasy. Start with putting them on for a short period of time, and pairing it with treats or a fun activity so that they form a positive association with the bo**ies.

𝗛𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗮 𝗳𝗲𝘄 𝗮𝗱𝗱𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗿𝗲𝘀𝗼𝘂𝗿𝗰𝗲𝘀 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀:

𝗖𝗮𝗻𝗮𝗱𝗶𝗮𝗻 𝗺𝗮𝗻𝘂𝗳𝗮𝗰𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗲𝗿𝘀:
- https://nahak.ca/en/product-category/dog-boots-category/
- https://tanzilla.ca/store/index.php
- https://lechienblanc.com/en/manteaux/

𝗩𝗶𝗱𝗲𝗼 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗵𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗼 𝗽𝘂𝘁 𝗼𝗻 𝗯𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗲𝘀:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUhAmqkZXxY (includes a trick using vet wrap to help them keep the bo**ies in place, and some sizing info)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyHlTNOWjjU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Imzg0d-flio

Have you tried bo**ies? What are your thoughts?

12/12/2025

Whether you are just starting out in the sport, or are looking for fun new trails, here are a few tips for find new skijoring & kicksledding trails.

1. Ask around! If you know anyone in the community, ask if they have spots to share. Facebook community groups can be a great place to look for new trails.

2. Trail applications like AllTrails or TrailForks can be a great way to discover new trails. Look for trails that are multi-use, and that are wide. If you are a beginner, trails with minimal hills and wide turns are better.

3. Search public land maps for back country trails. Many are frequented by snowmobiles, which can make nicely packed trails as long as you wear hi-vis clothing in case a snowmobile comes your way.

4. Check out the rivers (but remember to be safe on the ice). Once safely frozen over, rivers can make for great trails though they can be windy! Similar to back country trails, many rivers are frequented by snowmobiles and other skiers, meaning they will often have a semi-packed surface to use (make sure to wear hi-vis in high snowmobile traffic areas).

5. Go out and explore your community – there can be hidden treasures right in your backyard! Quiet walking trails can be wonderful trails to kicksled and ski.

Whatever you discover, remember to:

1. If unclear, ask permission if you can use the trail for your activity. Some trail owners and groomers do not want dogs. Some trails are specifically groomed for a certain activity that may be incompatible with kicksledding or skijoring.

2. Always be respectful to other trail users, and keep your dog under control

3. Clean up after yourself and your dog

Have fun!

12/12/2025

Hi everyone!

I’ve attempted to come up with a list of kicksled & skijor friendly trails in Manitoba – if you know of any others or have more information on any listed, please leave a comment!

𝗔 𝗳𝗲𝘄 𝘄𝗼𝗿𝗱𝘀 𝗼𝗻 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝗹 𝘂𝘀𝗮𝗴𝗲:

1. Always follow rules and be courteous. We’ve already lost trails in the past due to misconduct, so please conduct yourself and don’t ruin trail access for the rest of us. Stay off tracked nordic ski trails (it’s better for your dog and it ruins the track for skiers) and stay on the appropriate section unless otherwise noted on the trail. We want more trails not less!

2. Always clean up after your dog(s), and have control over your pet. Other trail users may not want to interact with your dog, so please prevent your dog from meeting other trail users.

3. Many of these trails are maintained by volunteer-led clubs. Please pay necessary trail fees, and if there are no trail fee, please donate if you can to help support the continued grooming of these trails.

𝗗𝗲𝗱𝗶𝗰𝗮𝘁𝗲𝗱 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝗹𝘀 – 𝘁𝗵𝗲𝘀𝗲 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝗹𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝘀𝗸𝗶𝗷𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴/𝗸𝗶𝗰𝗸𝘀𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗹𝗶𝗰𝗶𝘁𝗹𝘆 𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗼𝘄𝗲𝗱. 𝗠𝗼𝘀𝘁 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗺𝘂𝗹𝘁𝗶-𝘂𝘀𝗲/𝘀𝗵𝗮𝗿𝗲𝗱 𝘂𝘀𝗲 𝘀𝗼 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗲𝗰𝘁 𝘁𝗼 𝗲𝗻𝗰𝗼𝘂𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝗳𝗮𝘁-𝗯𝗶𝗸𝗲𝗿𝘀, 𝗵𝗶𝗸𝗲𝗿𝘀, 𝘀𝗻𝗼𝘄𝘀𝗵𝗼𝗲𝗿𝘀, 𝗲𝘁𝗰 𝘂𝗻𝗹𝗲𝘀𝘀 𝗼𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿𝘄𝗶𝘀𝗲 𝗻𝗼𝘁𝗲𝗱.

𝗕𝗶𝗿𝗱𝘀 𝗛𝗶𝗹𝗹 𝗣𝗮𝗿𝗸 – MB Park pass required
◦ Group Use #1 (shared use) – approx 7 km loop with options for 3 km loop
◦ Spruce trail (dog sled trail; kicksled and skijor allowed) – approx 11 km in/out with loop at end
▪ Trails can be very busy on weekends, Snowmotion often uses Group Use #1 on Sunday mornings.
◦ https://www.gov.mb.ca/sd/parks/park-maps-and-locations/central/birds.html

𝗟𝗮𝗕𝗮𝗿𝗿𝗶𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗣𝗮𝗿𝗸 – free
◦ 0.94 km (dedicated kicksled) loop (https://legacy.winnipeg.ca/publicworks/parksOpenSpace/ThingsToDo/Images/LaBarriere_WinterTrails2020_Revised.png)
◦ gives access to La Salle River which can be skied/kicksled if river conditions are safe to do so (watch out for snowmobiles)

𝗖𝗮𝗺𝗽 𝗠𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗼𝗻 – MB Park Pass required, trails are maintained by the Gimli Cross Country Club. Membership recommended if using the trails frequently (or donation)
◦ Moonshine (shared use) – 1.93 km Loop
◦ North Park (shared use) – 2.7 km Loop
◦ Shared Use Trail beside Kiosk (West Side) – 2 km In/Out
◦ https://www.gimliskiclub.ca/map/

• 𝗦𝗽𝗿𝘂𝗰𝗲 𝗪𝗼𝗼𝗱𝘀 – MB Park Pass required
◦ Yellow Quills – Cree section only is designated for skijoring – 5.1 km loop
◦ https://www.gov.mb.ca/sd/parks/park-maps-and-locations/western/spruce.html

𝗧𝘂𝗿𝘁𝗹𝗲 𝗠𝗼𝘂𝗻𝘁𝗮𝗶𝗻 – MB Park Pass required
◦ Skijoring is allowed on all shared use trails at Adams Lake
◦ Kicksledding/Skijoring may be allowed on other trails - as per CCSAM, the park grooms multi-use trails beside classic tracks. Confirm with Park ahead of usage.
◦ https://www.gov.mb.ca/sd/parks/park-maps-and-locations/western/turtle.html

𝗚𝗿𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗕𝗲𝗮𝗰𝗵 – MB Park Pass required
◦ Shared Use trail – 5.9 km loops and in/out
◦ https://www.gov.mb.ca/sd/parks/park-maps-and-locations/central/grand.html

𝗢𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝗹𝘀 – 𝗻𝗼𝗻-𝗱𝗲𝗱𝗶𝗰𝗮𝘁𝗲𝗱 𝗯𝘂𝘁 𝗵𝗮𝘃𝗲 𝗯𝗲𝗲𝗻 𝘀𝘂𝗰𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗳𝘂𝗹𝗹𝘆 𝘂𝘀𝗲𝗱 𝗽𝗿𝗲𝘃𝗶𝗼𝘂𝘀𝗹𝘆 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗸𝗶𝗰𝗸𝘀𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴/𝘀𝗸𝗶𝗷𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴

𝗪𝗶𝗹𝗱𝘄𝗼𝗼𝗱 𝗖𝗼𝗺𝗺𝘂𝗻𝗶𝘁𝘆 𝗖𝗹𝘂𝗯 - Donations welcome
◦ Kicksledding and skijoring permitted on Walking/Biking (Blue signs) trails ONLY. Various trails/distances (confirmed)
◦ Trails maintained by Wildwood CC, donations recommended
◦ Visit their page for more information or https://ccsam.ca/where-to-ski/trails/groups/wildwood-community-centre/

𝗦𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗻𝗼𝗻𝗱𝗮𝗹𝗲 - Donations welcome
◦ dog friendly ski trails – confirm with owner ahead of usage.
◦ https://ccsam.ca/where-to-ski/trails/groups/shannondale-1115506506/

𝗙𝗮𝗹𝗰𝗼𝗻 𝗥𝗶𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗦𝗸𝗶 - Donations welcome
◦ Please confirm ahead of time with lodge on if/what trails permit skijoring/kicksledding
◦ https://www.falconridgeski.com/

𝗔𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗶𝗯𝗼𝗶𝗻𝗲 𝗣𝗮𝗿𝗸 - Free
◦ Avoid dedicated nordic ski trails, can use normal hiking/biking trails.
◦ Caution – lots of very friendly deer/wildlife, can be busy, and watch out for off-leash dogs.
◦https://www.assiniboinepark.ca/uploads/public/images/maps/park-map.pdf

𝗔𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗶𝗯𝗼𝗶𝗻𝗲 𝗙𝗼𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘁 - Free
◦ Not specifically groomed for winter sports, but can use the trails for kicksledding/skijoring
◦ Caution – lots of very friendly deer/wildlife, can be busy, and watch out for off-leash dogs.
◦ Snowmotion appears to use trails on Friday nights
◦https://legacy.winnipeg.ca/publicworks/parksOpenSpace/NaturalistServices/NaturalAreas/PDF/Assiniboine_Forest_Entrance_Map.pdf

𝗞𝗶𝗻𝗴𝘀 𝗣𝗮𝗿𝗸 – Free
◦ not specifically groomed for winter sports, but you can use the trails for kicksledding/skijoring
◦ Outer loop is lovely for kicksledding/skijoring, but the trail may be sanded at times
◦ Trail passes near the off-leashed dog park so watch out for loose dogs!
◦ It's best to use trail when park is not busy

𝗥𝗶𝘃𝗲𝗿𝘀 – 𝗔𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗶𝗯𝗼𝗶𝗻𝗲, 𝗟𝗮𝗦𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗲, 𝗦𝗲𝗶𝗻𝗲, 𝗲𝘁𝗰 - Free
◦ May or may not be groomed/tracked but often have snowmobile tracks/paths
◦ Always check ice and be safe
◦ Avoid any spots that are bare/have exposed ice (stay on packed snow) to avoid dog slipping and injuring themselves.
◦ Wear high-vis clothing in case of snowmobiles

12/11/2025

What are Dog Powered Sports?

Dog Powered (or Harness) Sports are activities where the human is actively being pulled by their dog(s). Think of dog mushing, but using done while running or while using a bike, scooter/kickbike, kicksled, skiing, etc! There's a discipline for almost anyone - which one is your favourite?

Cani-resource

03/28/2026

01/02/2026

12/31/2025

12/21/2025

12/17/2025

12/14/2025

12/12/2025

12/12/2025

12/11/2025

Address

Website

Alerts

Shortcuts

Share

Category