Paw it Forward

09/25/2023

07/31/2023

04/22/2023

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We at CoolTides take great pride in our pedigrees, breeding for: health, temperament and longevity.

04/12/2023

Still a few pups available to new homes!

04/11/2023

CoolTides Portuguese WaterDogs in Ontario, Canada

03/03/2023

I think everyone could probably gain something by reading this!!

From Becky Rupert - I've been a trainer for over 20 years. I wrote this for my personal page and will include here for you. But the brief, daycare isn't a great place for dogs and the unease that builds there bleeds over into all other areas of life and can present as the behaviors you're seeing. The video that went with my post was a man with malinois pups biting a bite sleeve on his arm while he pulled back on their collars. And while you aren't building drive persay with what you are describing daycares can and they make dogs very uncomfortable especially working dogs. I touch on it below.

(I posted this on my personal page and thought I'd share here as well. It mostly pertains to training clients, but watch what you're doing because it may apply to you too!)
I watch this video and I have to chuckle...

This guy is building "drive" in working dogs. Dogs that will eventually go to police departments. Dogs that "bite" people or "hold" them until the handler gets there. I love watching what these guys do with the pups to get them ready for their future careers.

So why do I chuckle?

Because almost every single person that contacts me for training, or has a dog that is reactive or has a dog that has bit someone...does almost EXACTLY what this guy is doing! The difference is this guy knows he's building drive and knows what to do with it when he gets there. Pet dog owners have no idea what to do and end up with dogs that bite people or bite other dogs...or go to the dog park or daycare and are shocked when their dog puts holes in another dog.

And they tell me...

-But I used a harness so he wouldn't gag!!! That other trainer said harnesses were the BEST! Harnesses are gentle!

-I took him to the dog park daily. He was SOOO tired that night!
It was great! He played for HOURS.

-I took him to puppy classes and let him play with all the other puppies so he would LOVE other dogs! He was soooo EXCITED to go there each week! He barked the whole way there he loved it so much!

-I walked him and we visited other dogs/people on walks just like that guy said! 100 dogs and 100 people before he was xyz age! He only pulled because he was SO EXCITED and that guy said my dog would surely be "well socialized!"

And then the puppy bites the pant legs and the person pulls and yells and backs away...and the puppy loves it. The puppy gets amped up. The puppy bites more while the person screams NO, NO, NO, BAD! Then the person starts to pull at the leg and push at the puppy (watch the video some more).

These pet dog owners do an EXCELLENT job of creating frustration and building drive. I mean if I were looking to train working dogs I'd probably hire them!

But they aren't trying to create working dogs...they are trying to create sweet family pets that quietly greet people, don't bite people and calmly pass other dogs and people on walks.

So what's a pet owner to do????

STOP using harnesses, which act to encourage pulling and thus encourage frustration and build drive.

STOP taking your dog to dog parks and doggie daycares (STOP, STOP, STOP), which encourage out of control play, build frustration and are a breeding grounds for creating reactive and fearful dogs. You taking them isn't being kind. I promise. It's one of my most common themes in the daily emails I get desperately asking for help for their reactive dog.

STOP letting your dog greet every single person, every single dog, and get wound up about visiting others on walks. It's okay to not say HI to everyone! I promise!

STOP letting your dog set the tone in your house by biting you and ripping at your clothes. Or do driveby bites and nips.

That is unless you know what to do with that drive. That is unless you are working to create a working dog. That is unless you want a dog that is over the top.

But I'm guessing you don't...you probably want what 99.8% of pet dog owners want...a calm, peaceful, happy dog.

So...

START consistently reinforcing the behavior you want...a calm and relaxed dog that lays quietly beside you. That greets guests then goes and lays down.

START leash walking and training your dog and ask them to be focused on YOU when they see other people and dogs. I let my dog maybe greet 1 out of 10 people. The rest of the people we see?? I walk by and have my dog focus on me or engage with ME.

START allowing OCCASIONAL playdates with 1 or 2 other dogs, but interrupt the play when it gets too wound up and rough. And that might mean that GASP you'll leash your dog and make them lay down and NOT play with the other dog. Or leave when it gets too rough...just like I'd do with my kids.

START putting your dog on a leash in the house if they are setting the tone by constantly biting at you. If your dog is on a leash you can easily stop a run and nip and instead have them lay down and reinforce laying down. Too wound up still? Walk them to the crate and let them unwind without reinforcing biting.

START reinforcing your dog for laying calmly by your side and yes, sometimes that means the dog is in a crate laying beside you or on a leash to help coach the behavior you want.

If people did the above...I wouldn't have many training clients. I wouldn't get the emails about dogs biting people (no joke...I get them every single day) and I'd not have people desperate to know how to stop their reactive dog from embarrassing them on walks.

20 years ago this stuff was common sense. Now...? We all want to be indulgent to our dogs. And while a Golden retriever might be able to handle all of the above and still be a sweet golden, a working dog (read almost any dog from the working group, terriers, herding dogs) or a dog that was bred to bite can't unless you know what to do with that drive. And chances are...YOU DON'T.

Folks, stop being silly and either stop building drive or get a golden.

PS. If I could "prescribe" dogs...I would "prescribe" goldens for almost everyone.

Aleix Hodges https://www.facebook.com/LoganHausKennels/videos/1429911347380754/

02/28/2023

Training Without Conflict® Podcast Episode Seventeen: Susan GarrettA few weeks ago I released a podcast challenging the rhetoric of the force free ideology. ...

02/11/2023

09/20/2022

Ever noticed those slits at the sides of a dog’s nose? Why do dogs have them?

Once again, nature proves her elegance in the design of our dogs. When we humans inhale and exhale, air comes in the same way it goes out. Any smells that come in through our mouths are forced out as we exhale.

When a dog exhales through his nose, however, the exhaled air is released through those slits and off to the side so that nice, smelly air going into the dog’s nostrils doesn’t get diluted with the outgoing air. Put another way, the slits allow the dog to avoid smelling what he just exhaled.

The slits help the dog hold scent particles in the nostrils even as exhaled air passing out the slits creates a swirling air turbulence allowing interesting odors to be inhaled directly into the centre of each nostril. Since dogs breathe faster when trying to sniff a certain smell, they widen their nostrils to pull in more air which makes it possible for a dog searching for smells to have a steady stream of air coming in for up to 40 seconds, maybe even longer.

The slits also allow dogs to wiggle each nostril independently which gives them the ability to know which nostril a smell entered. This is how a dog can pinpoint where a smell is coming from, and why a dog searching for smells on the ground will weave back and forth as he follows a trail.

We all know the superb smelling abilities of dogs, but let’s use an analogy between scent and sight to really put it into perspective: What we as humans can see at a third of a mile, our dog can see more than 3,000 miles away and still see as well.

01/24/2022

Are Dogs Playing or Fighting? How to Evaluate Rough Play

By AKC Staff
May 09, 2019 | 3 Minutes

socialization
communication
play
bite inhibition

If two dogs are wrestling and it seems too rough to you, with all that growling and snarling, body-slamming, and biting of each other’s necks, should you intervene? How can you tell if dogs are playing or fighting?

This is normal dog play. Puppies play with their littermates constantly. From around two weeks, when their eyes open, until they go to their own homes, they spend almost all of their waking hours wrestling with each other. It’s a critical time for social development because it is when they learn bite inhibition and good dog manners. It is good exercise and socialization for them and fun for us to watch. But you should learn how to tell the difference between playing and a real fight when adult dogs are involved.

Behaviors that say it’s all good fun
The play bow – front end down, back end in the air. Sometimes the dog trying to initiate play will slap his front legs down on the ground repeatedly.
A big, silly open-mouthed grin.
Exaggerated, bouncy movement. The dogs are acting silly.
Loud, continuous growling and snarling; again, exaggerated. Play-growling may sound scarier than serious fighting.
The dogs voluntarily make themselves vulnerable by “falling” down and exposing their bellies and allowing themselves to be caught when playing chase. They take turns chasing each other.
They keep going back for more. Even the dog that ends up on his back doesn’t want to stop playing. They will probably take turns with most play-fighting behaviors.
Are these dogs playing or fighting
Behaviors that tell you this is not a game
The dogs’ bodies get very stiff. Hackles (the hair on a dog’s upper back) are raised. You may not be able to see this if the dog has long hair.
Closed mouth, curled lip, low warning growl.
Movements will be quick and efficient – no bouncing around, no taking turns.
Ears will be pinned flat and lips curled back and snarling. No big silly smiles.
If the dogs get into actual combat, hopefully it will be a short encounter, and the “loser” will try to leave the area. There won’t be going back for more play.
The dog is trying to get away from the other one, and her body language is not happy and bouncy. Tail is tucked. She isn’t having fun.
Tips to ensure safe dog-wrestling
Not every dog is meant for the dog park, and that’s OK. Some breeds are just quick to take offense. They may be better off playing at home with you or with a dog buddy they know well.
Don’t allow a puppy or dog to be ganged up on by other dogs. Even if she doesn’t get hurt, a bad experience with other dogs can traumatize her and cause fearfulness that will be hard to overcome.
Keep food and toys out of the picture. Most dogs are possessive of their food and their stuff. To them, it’s worth fighting for.
Eurasier puppies playing in the grass.

Have a plan for home and away
If your dog does get into a real fight, do not attempt to separate the dogs by grabbing a collar or using any part of your body. You will likely get bitten. There are safer ways to break them up.

A loud noise might distract the dogs. Keep a small air horn in your car. If a hose is available, spray their heads with water. At home, find something big and flat, like a piece of plywood or a baby gate, which can be put between the dogs.

The best way to avoid a fight is to recognize the signs of potential conflict and act quickly and calmly to separate the dogs before the situation escalates and everyone can continue having a good time

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